AppetitePortland

Farmers Fare in Rockport

Nov 22

Posted by dawn in Outside Portland, Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

A farm-to-table, back-to-the-land mentality is – blessedly – nothing new in Maine. The work and dedication of organizations such as Cultivating Community are deeply rooted here. So I was surprised that I was actually surprised by a beautiful new store, farm, and gathering place that recently sprouted up in Rockport.

Farmers Fare in Rockport - in a photo from the company's website

I popped by the 8-week old Farmers Fare during a mid-November mid-coast excursion. Local fruits and vegetables, an authentic butcher and deli (think pheasant sausage and fresh quail eggs), still-warm baked goods and hearty prepared foods – all were housed in a massive structure the size of a New England Barn. Four surrounding acres featured demonstration vegetable gardens, native plants, edible landscaping and open space for public gatherings.

It was Rosemont Market mixed with Turkey Hill Farm — on steroids.

The Farmers Fare website outlines the company’s mission as, “to bring a contemporary interpretation to traditions that have always enriched our lives. We will host Sunday suppers, pig roasts, pumpkin carvings and other fun events. We pledge to provide a welcoming atmosphere, and scrumptious local food and products of highest quality. We will provide rooms for lectures and informal meetings about food, cooking, and growing healthy crops.”

Throw in a clever, colorful marketing campaign (complete with hats, tee-shirts, banners and a painted van), and me thinks the Farmers Fare’s eye-catching approach to revitalizing community and supporting local farmers just may just catch on.

And that’s a wonderful thing.

Cookbook Madness

Nov 18

Posted by dawn in Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

I’m in love with a cookbook. I keep flipping through it, re-reading recipes, running my hands across the pages and gazing at the gorgeous photos for long, longing moments. “But wait,” you say. “Isn’t that normal for you foodie types?” Well, maybe for others, but not for me.

A section from Mad Hungry by Lucinda Scala Quinn

While I’ve always revered creative food photography, I’ve mostly treated cookbooks — from Julia’s masterpiece to Jamie’s latest — as utilitarian.

But not this one. Perhaps it is special. Perhaps I am mending my ways.

It is Mad Hungry by Lucinda Scala Quinn.

Purchased at Rabelais (of course!) in late October, it has earned an honored spot at my bedside. I’ve scoured through every page – and have yet to cook a thing! It’s more memoir — a love letter to the family meal — than pure cookbook. With the subtitle Feeding Men & Boys – Recipes, Strategies and Survival Techniques, Quinn tosses out advice (never be caught without bacon) and opinion (men love hot sauce) in between more detailed counsel on shopping with children and how to stock a guy-friendly pantry.

I don’t have sons, or even kids, and I’m devouring every word of it.

It probably doesn’t hurt that Jennifer S. Muller, the brilliant designer behind the look of the new Maine Magazine, lent her creative eye to the cleverly structured pages. Simple graphics, spot color and cunning use of pull-out sections make it a joy to peruse.

Each recipe starts with either a family story or a tidy justification for its inclusion. While none are elaborate — they range from “perfect fried egg every time” to “roast leg of lamb with lemon, garlic and oregano” — they all touch on home and hearth.

Quinn’s not shy about sharing her views, “Make boys eat breakfast. Brainwash them; it works. Tell them they’ll be smarter, have fewer zits, anything.” She somehow manages to scold, cajole and pontificate in a way that is accessible and charming. Her suggestions and theories aren’t groundbreaking, but are presented with humor and intent.

I guarantee, even the most seasoned gourmand will learn a thing or two.

Meal from a Master

Nov 12

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining | 3 Comments

First, let me say that Rob Evans deserves all the accolades. My birthday dinner at Hugo’s was nothing short of spectacular. That said, when your restaurant sits perched on a pedestal boasting a shining, gleaming “sterling” reputation – well, the expectations of your guests run high. Very high.

The gateway to a great meal

My admittedly stratospherically high expectations were almost – just about – very nearly – exceeded. But not quite.

We had, of course, the “works.” Better know as the chef’s six-course nightly tasting menu with wine pairings. Courses three and four – the cod and the duck – were both spot-on, do-a-little-happy-dance-in-delight, successes.

Another stunning dish was the first course of beet-cured salmon belly paired with a fennel and hyssop salad. Got that? Beet. Cured. Salmon. It was inspiring.

Where the meal failed for me was during a strange second course cheekily titled “Deconstructed Chowdah.” Fried bits of clams sat in a bland thyme oil sauce communing with doughy, flavorless potato gnocchi. The wine pairing for this dish, an acidy Saumur from the Loire Valley, was disappointing alone. It truly botched as a pairing – turning flat-out bitter.

Not sure the “deconstructed” trend has legs. Or should.

The cod dish featured succulent, crispy cheeks and a meaty pan-fried belly. But the duck was the night’s winner by a nose. All three preparations were a joy. A crispy breast nestled on a bed of delicately spiced wheat berries tasted, as Adam put it — his eyes wide — like Fall. A foie gras was melt-in-your-mouth marvelous, and the duck pancetta – perfectly cured with a layer of fatty chewiness – almost defies description.

The fifth (cheese) course was a little lackluster, but dessert was a lovely “crispy cream” of braised pineapple, peppers and coconut milk.

Overall – a truly memorable meal.

Friday Night Slice

Nov 8

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Snacks & Street Food | 2 Comments

What was First Friday like before Otto Pizza? I shudder to think. Queuing up for a slice (or two, or three) is integral to Portland’s monthly art walk for me.

Otto Pizza is a First Friday Art Walk must

It goes like this: Leave the office at 5 pm. Stroll through Whitney Art Works and MECA. Check out what’s at Space. Pop into Otto and grab a slice. Devour it while ambling over to Portland Museum of Art. Peruse the first-floor special exhibit. Stop for a martini at Norm’s. Continue on to a few West End galleries. Settle in for a beer at Blue and listen to some music. Pop into Otto again (they are open until 2 am!) for another slice (or two). Go home.

I’m tellin’ ya, it is the perfect Friday evening. And the visits to Otto are a critical part.

I love standing in the tiny alcove of a pizzeria, enveloped by the smell of baking dough, and peering over Adam’s shoulder at the pie options displayed in an orderly row. The four nightly choices are always yummy and interesting – sweet Italian sausage with roasted red pepper; spinach, feta, plum tomato and Genoa salami; mushrooms, caramelized onions and fontina cheese; sliced potatoes with scallions, bacon and fresh herbs.

I could go on.

Thin with a crispy crust and oily overtones (in the good, NYC-style way), Otto’s pies are just what Portland needed on Congress street in the heart of the Arts District. Give my itinerary a try next month. Or, comment back with your own First Friday food agenda (or Otto Pizza story)!

Hake at Home

Nov 6

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Stores & Purveyors | 1 Comment

I’ve avoided writing about our at-home cooking because this blog really isn’t about that. But, when you live with such a wonderful cook and have such great ingredients from local purveyors, it certainly deserves mention once in awhile. Adam picked up some fresh catch from Harbor Fish Market and made one of my favorites last night – Proscuitto-Wrapped Hake.

Adam's half-eaten proscuitto-wrapped hake

I’m more of a recipe-following type. Adam is the true kitchen creative. I mostly act as his sous chef and have evolved into a celebrated salad maker among my peeps. My killer homemade dressings are the key (if I like you I may tell you about my recently created whiskey/olive/mustard vinaigrette).

Adam knocks around the kitchen making a mess and stewing up great scents. He tends to braise most meats and then finish them in the oven in a fragrant sauce. He’s a master of sauces.

Last night’s fish started (as most great dishes do) with shallots and garlic in butter.

Once the shallots become translucent, simmer with white wine and chicken stock.
Add some tomato paste and chopped kalamatas to taste.
Wrap the hake in proscuitto (keep the slices thin).
Plop the fish into the pan and cover with thin-sliced fresh tomatoes and lemon.
Salt and pepper over the top and throw in the oven for 15-20 minutes at 400 degrees.
Make sure the proscuitto is getting crispy on the edges before you pull it out.

Serve with a spinach salad and glass of Pinot Noir or lemon-infused vodka.

Taste of Honey

Nov 3

Posted by dawn in Stores & Purveyors | 2 Comments

I didn’t expect to like it. I really despise sweet wines, and the meads I’ve sipped in the past have failed (miserably) to impress. Grain alcohol mixed with honey was the usual sensation. But, Eli, Ben and the crew at Maine Mead Works are doing something different, better – right. And, much to my surprise, I’ve become a big fan.

Maine Mead Works co-owner, Ben Alexander, describes the fermentation process

The secret to great mead is the continuous fermentation process and the guys at Maine Mead Works have it nailed. They use a proprietary yeast strain to ferment the honey in what look like large test tubes bubbling with golden liquid. After bulk aging, the mead is hand bottled, labeled and stored a few more weeks before leaving the company’s tiny Anderson Street factory.

Granted, it is the Dry that has evolved into my go-to mead. Done right, dry mead hits the nose full of sweetness and light – displaying floral notes of the wildflowers blooming when the honey was in season. On the palate, it smooths out into a subtle, smoky earthiness.

Dry mead pairs wonderfully with spicy foods and (great for Maine) lobster. But, I have to admit that I also have enjoyed the Blueberry on occasion, and I’m not-so patiently awaiting the pre-Thanksgiving release of the Cranberry.

However, it is the limited-release Dry aged in a bourbon cask that I’m REALLY anxiously anticipating. Eli let that nugget slip on my most recent factory visit and I’ve been checking my email for the heads-up ever since.

I plan to run-not-walk to the warehouse-only sale of this special edition.

Hunk of Heaven

Oct 31

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Stores & Purveyors | No Comments

Still in recovery mode from the week-long Portland food coma (props to the so-named blog for the very apt description) caused by our BFFs visit (see previous post), we settled in on the couch last night with soup, a crusty baguette and chocolate zucchini bread from Rosemont Market. I can’t say enough good things about Rosemont Market and I have yet to make a pilgrimage to the flagship store out in the avenues! I’m saving that trip for a pick-me-up on a dreary December day.

My lame iPhone photo of the Chocolate Zucchini Bread from Rosemont Market

The delightful little East End shop is so chock full of goodies that it alone can supply us with fresh produce, smoked meats, HoneyMaker Mead (more on Maine Mead Works soon), baked goods and cheese (try the triple-cream Kunik for a splurge) for weeks on end.

While the Guinness cake, pies, cupcakes and cookies all deserve their due, it’s the chocolate zucchini bread that has become a household favorite. While Thomas, a Rosemont guru, advises frying up a slice with butter (seriously), I think Adam has hit on the best way to prepare a thick hunk of the loaf.

Crumble a two-inch thick slice into a shallow bowl, pour a generous amount of cream over it and nuke it in the microwave for 60 seconds at half power. The result rivals a chocolate molten cake. Divine!

Days of Indulgence – Day 1

Oct 23

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Snacks & Street Food | 2 Comments

I woke up this morning feeling two pounds heavier and had to question the wisdom of going to Duck Fat and Fore Street on the same day. But, with our BFFs (bestest foodie friends) visiting from away – what choice did we have, really? We only have 5 days to show them why Portland has received such culinary acclaim and I’m not about to fall down on that mission!

BFFs Dan and Shelley dig into Duck Fat fries

Watching someone bite into a Duck Fat fry for the first time has to be one of my favorite repeat food-lover moments. The pause. The stunned stare. The look of rapturous joy that accompanies such a pure guilty pleasure. And, finally, the statement – “that is the best freakin’ fry I’ve ever had in my life.”

Not to say that everything else at Duck Fat isn’t wonderful. It is. The duck confit and meatloaf paninis deserve thunderous accolades, as do the super-creamy shakes (especially, for me, the coffee one), but the fries are, without a doubt, the stars of the show.

Crisped to perfection in the thick grease that gives this little bistro its name, the fries are then lightly sprinkled with a peppery spice mixture, scooped into a paper cone and placed in a spiral metal holder. The heaping, steaming pile of love comes with a choice of dipping sauces. While the Thai Chili Mayo has earned top spot in my heart, the Garlic Aioli and Truffle Ketchup have their merits, as well.

Sigh.

Well, I’m off for a run. Gotta prepare for another day of gastronomic celebration.

Maine Comfort

Oct 22

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining | 3 Comments

Caiolas is the kind of cozy neighborhood restaurant where your cheeks turn rosy from the wine, the warm draft from the kitchen and animated conversation. Serving upscale comfort food inspired by owner Lisa Vaccaro’s rustic Italian roots, the meals don’t come out quickly, but they come out precise. It was the perfect place to settle in and catch up with my best friend from high school and her husband visiting from Chicago.

We’d allotted two hours for a leisurely meal and we needed it. The point of a night at Caiolas is to dine – and dine we did.

An initial round of crab cakes was a revelation — creamy herbed meat ensconced in a perfectly crunchy little shell of breading. No sogginess here (few things bug me more than a soggy crab cake)! The arugula salad that followed was peppery and loaded with julienned pears. Tossed with a light vinaigrette, it retained its fresh bite to the end.

Adam loved his burger, which came nestled in thick toasted bread, instead of a bun, accompanied by crispy round balls that looked like little breaded eggs. Turns out they were tater tots.

My slow-braised pork with fennel and polenta truly embodied the comfort food definition, but it was the side of greens that had me muttering “wow” over and over. Hiding in the mustard fronds were chunks of squash and mini brussel sprouts bursting with earthy flavor. Yum.

Suprisingly, no one ordered fish, which is a shame as chef/owner Chef Abby Harmon became known for her topnotch seafood at Street and Company.

Guess we just need to go back with our next visitors.

Ode to a Cob

Oct 15

Posted by dawn in Snacks & Street Food | 1 Comment

Despite a good start with a wicked spicy Michelada (a traditional Mexican mixture of beer and lime juice – pumped up a notch at El Rayo with a dash of Tabasco) there were things about this popular taqueria that didn’t set my foodie heart aflutter.

Adam grooving on the cob at El Rayo

The tortillas should have been pan-crisped (or a least warmed). The meat in the pork taco was a tad dry (although the fish taco was moist perfection). And, the tops of the stools were so tiny it was like sitting on a pin (even for Adam’s teeny, tiny tushie).

But all was forgiven when I bit into the corn on the cob. Oh. My. God.

Grilled and coated with chipotle mayonnaise and cotija cheese, this was not my mama’s Midwestern side dish. Savory, sweet and oozing with cheesiness, I powered through the cob in a heartbeat. Called “edible crack” by El Rayo regulars, this corn sticks in your mind even more than it does on your teeth.

Case in point: when I spied it on plates at the 20 Mile Meal, I made a beeline for the long line snaking out from El Rayo’s table. I didn’t want to get too full on other things before I’d had my cob.

It’s that good.

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