AppetitePortland

Baked at Blue

Jan 16

Posted by dawn in Bar Scene, Informal Dining | No Comments

Work, moving, meeting, traveling, more work. The last 12 days have dulled my motivation and kept me from the food that inspires my words. But last night I got my groove back — and it wasn’t even at a restaurant. Blue is a favorite of ours. We settle in at a two-top, lean against the deep red walls that envelope the long, narrow space and lose ourselves in the music. Singer songwriters at 7:00, followed by “anything goes” at 9:00.

Mark Tipton and his New Orleans jazz band wow the crowd at Blue

We’ve seen Celtic, Middle Eastern, Blues, Old Time, Jazz, Folk — you name it — at this Congress Street lounge and music venue. On the Eve of Christmas Eve we reveled in classic carols re-imagined by the styling trumpet of Mark Tipton and his mod Jazztet. On an earlier visit he wowed the crowd with a New Orleans-style jazz band.

Neighborhood buzz fills the air between songs, flatware clinks against bowls of hearty pasta or plates of tasty snacks. Microbrews — including Maudite from Unibroue and the latest from Dogfish Head — flow from the tap. Folks don’t come any nicer than owner Barry Martin. And his ever-present girlfriend Therez? Well, Therez has baked her way into my heart. Not with fancy pastries or complicated desserts, but with bakery traditions made with care.

At Thanksgiving her pumpkin pie was more spice than sweet and topped with luscious homemade whipped cream. Christmas brought a plump and flavorful gingerbread — part chewy, part crumbly and all good. Last night she debuted her streusel-top apple pie a la mode. Hints of cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and — if I’m not mistaken — brandy steamed up from the generous slice that disappeared all too quickly.

I can’t wait to see what Therez bakes up next.

Indian Flatbread Seduction

Jan 4

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining | 3 Comments

It would only be a slight stretch to say that the Roti Canai at Green Elephant seduced me into moving to Portland. At the time of my first bite, I knew nothing about the fabulous food scene awaiting me here. I just knew that the Indian flatbread was the best I’d ever tasted.

Although rich and hearty, the Siamese Dream Curry Noodle is not my favorite dish at the wonderful Green Elephant.

It was a pleasant, eye-opening surprise for someone who’s lived in San Francisco and eaten her way across Asia. I distinctly remember chewing and pondering, “God, this is good – I am in Maine, right?”

Since that fateful March afternoon, I’ve returned to Green Elephant numerous times and it never fails to please. In fact, the vegetarian Asian bistro – with its 95% vegan menu – is one of this committed carnivore’s favorite go-to spots.

Go figure.

Lightly fried and slathered in ghee (clarified butter), the Roti Canai may be a bit slick and chewy (read greasy) for some, but I adore it. Paired with a sweetly piquant vegetable curry dipping sauce, I could make a meal of the generous serving – if Adam didn’t insist on sharing (grumble).

Filling up on flatbread, however, would deny me all the other wonderful menu items, such as the hearty Tofu Tikka Masala. Loaded with dense tofu strips, spinach, edamame, and chick peas, the dish comes with a generous pile of brown rice seasoned with curry powder and shallots. The Masala sauce, though, is the entrée’s undisputed star. Savory and creamy with just the right amount of kick, it makes you forget there’s no chicken!

Another cherished dish is the Spicy Pad-Sha Rotini. The pleasantly pungent entrée blends stir-fried tomato and spinach rotini pasta (yes, pasta) with cherry tomatoes, basil, onion, bell peppers, bamboo shoots, string beans, soy meat, and kra-chai (a mild cousin of the ginger root).

On a recent visit we branched out from these favorites to explore other options. My Siamese Dream Curry Noodle was grand at first, but after a few spoonfuls it proved too sweet and rich. I prefer the restaurant’s lighter sauces that allow the fresh vegetables and soy proteins to shine through. Maybe I should have known better – the dish features coconut curry and cashews, for heaven’s sake – but I felt the other ingredients were completely overwhelmed.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, Adam’s Char Guay Teow was the epitome of fresh. Although more aromatic than flavorful, he thoroughly enjoyed the Malaysian stir-fried wide rice noodles cooked with bean sprouts, scallions and tofu “ham”, and topped with shredded lettuce and cilantro.

Green Elephant’s small but thoughtful wine list (with generous pours) also earns high marks from me, as do the affordable prices and the ambiance. Stylish drop lights and quirky crystal chandeliers mix with faux golden brick, bamboo floors, and giant flatware cut outs that double as coat hooks. The effect is all cozy and ”Buddhist hip.”

But, it is the food – specifically that Roti Canai – that keeps me going back.

Beer at the Brunch Room

Dec 24

Posted by dawn in Breakfast & Brunch, Fine Dining | 1 Comment

In Portland, Chef Lee Harding Smith has renovated a Room for every occasion. The moody Grill Room proves a match for meat cravings and cocktails. The bustling Corner Room fits the bill for power lunches and pre-show appetizers. And The Front Room? For my money, the Munjoy Hill bistro is all about brunch and beer (albeit not together).

The Front Room's mussels can't match its Brunch items. Thanks for the photo, Kate!

The latter reason drew me to the East End eatery a few days ago to meet my friend Kate (of The Blueberry Files). When a chill hits the air, The Front Room’s welcoming bar warms with conversation and cheer. Laughing locals and the rhythm of a martini shaker can sustain me through March.

But, while the atmosphere sings, dinners at The Front Room have never set my toes a’ tingling. A recent dinner there with Adam yielded a good, but unremarkable, meal of roasted half chicken and cedar-planked salmon. So, my expectations were properly aligned when Kate and I ordered a bowl of mussels and two salads – Caesar for her and spinach for me.

Featuring mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, onions, and feta, my salad was tasty and filling, but the vinaigrette lacked a certain zing. The mussels – set in a stew of garlic, wine, tomatoes and herbs – were well-cooked and plentiful. They did not, however, secure a spot on my top five list (see previous post). Nothing about the basic broth overly impressed either of us.

No, it is brunch where The Front Room truly shines. I’ll patiently wait the half-hour required to procure a plate of Baked Beans & Brown Bread on a Saturday morning. Served with a basted egg, the massive pile of maple-basted beans coats thick chunks of hearty Boston-style bread – delightful. Other morning winners include a rich Potato Gnocci with spinach, bacon, two poached eggs and hollandaise; and a baked egg dish with cream and parmesan.

My Front Room bottom line: Brunch – Yes. Mussels – No.

Finally 555

Dec 19

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining | 1 Comment

Confidently, the waiter issued a throwdown, “These will list high in your top five.” I raised an eyebrow at his aplomb – I had just made clear my deep appreciation for a good bowl of mussels. One more quick scan of the full Five Fifty-Five menu and I took the plunge.

My first visit to 555 was a mussel revelation

Now, it’s not that I expect more from the shellfish dish than most folks. Don’t we all want an ideal consistency and a creative, aromatic broth? It’s just that – too often – restaurants fail to hit the mussel mark. And, the ingredients in this recipe seemed – I don’t know – odd. Pickled cherry peppers, carmelized garlic and chive butter? On mussels? Wouldn’t that be overpowering?

No. It was marvelous.

Served in more of an oily, savory paste than a broth, the mussels were perfectly cooked, perfectly proportioned and outrageously unique. The tang of the pepper and garlic gave the dish just the right amount of heat without overwhelming it.

WAAAYYY different than the classically wonderful Fore Street version (a winning concoction of butter, garlic, almonds and vermouth), the mussels at Five Fifty-Five are now – as our waiter predicted – sitting on my top five list.

In fact, everything about our first dining experience at Five Fifty-Five is tops with me at the moment.

Adam loved the restaurant’s signature Lobster Mac and Cheese (who wouldn’t – hand rolled torchio pasta, shucks certified Maine lobster, artisanal cheese sauce, shaved black summer truffles – duh!) and my Sticky Pig was tender, moist – and very, very large. I snarfed so much of the buttery mound of collard greens, however, that most of the massive chop ended up in my eggs the next morning.

For dessert we couldn’t pass up the intriguingly title “trio of interesting house-churned ice creams.” Ice cream? Interesting? Bring it on. Marshmallow mint (a strangely charismatic combination), rosemary, and cayenne peanut. Yum all the way around.

Our waiter, Ezra, was attentive, knowledgeable and opinionated (just the way I like ‘em), and the entire service experience was top notch. Another server was bringing our entrees when he spied me heading to the loo. I turned down his offer to hold off on the plate delivery, but was impressed none-the-less. The bar tab effortlessly transferred over and the numberless coat-check went off without a snag.

My first experience at Five Fifty-Five gets a first-rate high five from me.

A Taste of Holiday Spirit(s)

Dec 14

Posted by dawn in Dining Events, Informal Dining | 2 Comments

It had a cute name. And, I reasoned, “it has Guinness in it –how bad can it be?”

The makings of a Whiskey Mac

Bad.

If a forgotten concoction called Christmas Pudding has somehow appeared on your holiday cocktail menu – I’m tellin’ ya — just cross it off right now. It was, as the mastermind behind Portland Food Map declared, “revolting!”

This nasty drink was one of four “obscure holiday cocktails” recently consumed by Adam, myself, the aforementioned Portland food scene guru and fellow food bloggers Kate (The Blueberry Files) and S (Edible Obsessions). Click on over for their insights on our evening of arcane spirits.

Inspired by the season and the musings of local mix master John Myers, we gathered on a wintry night to sample – in order of consumption – the following holiday hooch: Whiskey Mac, Rye Flip, Christmas Pudding, and Glugg.

S, a cheese connoisseur, challenged herself to pair each tipple with an aged treat, and the results were the highlight of the evening. The woman knows her cheese!

First up — Whiskey Mac:
1-1/2 ounces of Johnny Walker Black and 1 ounce of Stone’s Ginger Wine met in a glass and made magic. The sweetness of the wine tempered the smokiness of the scotch and a smooth, golden liquid emerged. A tad toothsome by the end, this palliative would be too syrupy to sip all night. But, as a pre-dinner conversation starter it gets a big thumbs up!

Bottom line: Have one – just one.
Pairing: A tangy Quadrella di Bufala set off the smokiness in the scotch quite nicely.

The dregs of a Rye Flip gunk up my wine glass

Next — Rye Flip:
Made with two ounces Rye Whiskey (Sazerac in this case), a raw egg, a teaspoon of maple syrup and a dash of nutmeg, the Rye Flip is essentially an anemic relative of the esteemed holiday classic — Egg Nog. Frothy and a bit viscous in the glass, the gooey gunk was kinda tasty, but felt like a cheap date compared to its creamy cousin.

Bottom Line: Opt for the Egg Nog.
Pairing: Gabietou, a sheep and cow milk blend, elevated the Rye Flip to another level by providing the missing lusciousness. S knocked this one out of the park!

Then – Christmas Pudding:
A blend of 6 ounces of Guinness with one ounce each of Drambuie and Southern Comfort, the Christmas Pudding, tasted, at first, like an alcoholic root beer. Subsequent sips revealed it to be tragically cloying and – truly – disgusting.

Bottom line: Don’t ruin a perfectly good draft of Guinness!
Pairing: Not even the lovely, semi-firm Landaff from New Hampshire could save this drink.

Finally – Glugg:
Kate secured the recipe for this marvelous Scandinavian precursor to mulled wine. Simmered on the stovetop and set on fire prior to serving, Glugg is warm, comforting and – literally – loaded with holiday spirits. A blend of spiced rum, port, brandy, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom seeds and orange peels, it cheers the palate like Christmas in a glass.

Bottom line: Yes!!!!
Pairing: A Rouge River Blue Cheese wrapped in brandy soaked grape leaves provided the perfect pungent counterpoint to the spicy toddy.

The Okay Egg

Dec 6

Posted by dawn in Breakfast & Brunch, Informal Dining | 3 Comments

The place was hopping. Speakers piped soothing strains of Keane’s “Crystal Ball.” Large Coffee by Design mugs steamed from every table. A quick scan through the menu revealed a curious item titled “Eggs from Hell.” I sighed, contented, and settled in. All signs pointed to a fabulous brunch.

Asian eggs dish failed to inspire at The Good Egg cafe

Unfortunately, not so much. The Good Egg was simply okay.

On the positive side, dishes were creative. The menu blended standard fare (French toast, multi-grain pancakes) with the aforementioned devilish offering (a popular entree featuring eggs, super-spicy black beans and a smoky, chipotle hot sauce).

On the negative side, execution was uninspired. My order of Asian Eggs with Mushu Pancakes seemed more Scranton than Shanghai. Chunks of onion and a hint of ginger struggled mightily – but failed – to provide much zip to what was, essentially, a decent scrambled eggs with veggies.

Adam’s Homemade Corned Beef Hash was warm, moist, hearty – and completely flat. Carrot was the prevailing flavor (not herbs, not seasoned beef). Over easy eggs were – drum roll, please – “fine.”

Service was cheerful and earnest, if a tad slow. And the specially blended CBD coffee held up its end of the bargain. Adam’s crisp oatmeal bread was a surprising stand out. Smothered with a gooey strawberry jam, the thick slices packed a sweet, wheaty punch.

But, alas, brunch cannot stand on toast alone.

The Good Egg is the morning incarnation of the Pepperclub restaurant on Middle Street. A recreation of a much-admired breakfast cafe from the 80’s and early 90’s, I give credit to the owners for preserving a Portland tradition.

And, to be fair, it was just one visit. Maybe I should have tried those Eggs from Hell. Perhaps the multi-grain pancakes are totally mind-blowing.

I’ll give it another try — just not all that soon.

Pairing Perfection

Dec 1

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining | No Comments

Lacking the self-congratulatory air so prevalent in trained sommeliers, Bar Lola’s co-owner and wine expert, Stella Hernandez, never misses the mark — at least not to my palate. Often accused of wine snobbery, I’m a pretty tough customer.

A selection of French Chenin Blancs

Her husband’s food makes her job challenging. This welcoming East End eatery features an ever-changing five-course tasting menu and daily specials. No resting on your “favorite vintage” wine laurels here.

If I’m focused only on the wine, I’m a red drinker. Rattling off an opinion about which Pint Noir offers the smoothest finish comes second-nature to me. I rarely even glance at a white. When it comes to food, however, I gravitate – especially here by the sea – to fish and seafood. So figuring out what to pair with my mussels and fresh-caught sole caused me no little consternation. Stella took matters into her own hands.

Casco Bay Mussels with blistered tomato and fennel came with a crisp French Chenin Blanc that released the flavors of the aromatic broth and tamed the shellfish’s briny bite with mineral overtones. I nodded and smiled my approval.

In advance of the sole, Stella slipped me a glass of Napa Chardonnay. A sniff and swallow later, I shuffled a bit in my seat. Not my favorite. Anyone who knows me well has heard my rants about over-oaked Napa wines at some point or another. I held my judgment for the first bite of sole. With a mouthful of the fish I tried again. Perfection. The buttery sauce soothed the oak and brought out the wine’s fruit. The simple white fish, in response, popped with flavor.

Stella simply knows her stuff.

My Guiding Star

Nov 26

Posted by dawn in Breakfast & Brunch, Informal Dining | 1 Comment

Perhaps it was that first bite into a peanut butter raw ball — a chunky concoction that tastes like a little, edible orb of childhood. Or, maybe it was the strum of Connor Garvey’s guitar. No, no. It was when the Americano’s steam tickled my nostrils before the sip. Smooth, aromatic, full of rich-roasted bean.

The order counter at North Store Music Cafe

That’s when North Star Music Café captured my heart — and my ongoing business.

It truly is impossible to overstate what a marvelously enveloping environment owners Kim Anderson and Anna Maria Tocci have created on Munjoy Hill. Everything — from the organic mesclun greens in the salads, to the creative daily soups, to the acoustic performers singing onstage – fires on all cylinders.

Sometimes I simply sink into an overstuffed chair cupping that Americano and play a rousing round of Phase 10 with Adam. Other times I cart in my laptop, log onto the free WIFI and spend the entire day working — and working my way through a bagel, then a sandwich, then a glass of wine.

On any given night I know I can stroll in, order a local brew or an herbal tea and sit back for some of the best singer-songwriter’s playing the circuit. I discovered the haunting lyrics of Rebecca Lobie, the powerful pipes of Jenn Grinels and the witty words of John Craigie — all on one November Monday!

Simple and hearty, the menu is more grounded than ground-breaking — but that’s the whole point. What feels more like home than a heaping bowl of rice and beans topped with avocado, tomato, and Cabot sharp cheddar? Or, a Yellow-Fin tuna salad sandwich with balsamic mayonnaise, tart capers and crisp red onion?

North Star Music Café is a warm welcome disguised as a neighborhood bistro. If you’ve never been, or haven’t been lately, I highly recommend you remedy that.

Farmers Fare in Rockport

Nov 22

Posted by dawn in Outside Portland, Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

A farm-to-table, back-to-the-land mentality is – blessedly – nothing new in Maine. The work and dedication of organizations such as Cultivating Community are deeply rooted here. So I was surprised that I was actually surprised by a beautiful new store, farm, and gathering place that recently sprouted up in Rockport.

Farmers Fare in Rockport - in a photo from the company's website

I popped by the 8-week old Farmers Fare during a mid-November mid-coast excursion. Local fruits and vegetables, an authentic butcher and deli (think pheasant sausage and fresh quail eggs), still-warm baked goods and hearty prepared foods – all were housed in a massive structure the size of a New England Barn. Four surrounding acres featured demonstration vegetable gardens, native plants, edible landscaping and open space for public gatherings.

It was Rosemont Market mixed with Turkey Hill Farm — on steroids.

The Farmers Fare website outlines the company’s mission as, “to bring a contemporary interpretation to traditions that have always enriched our lives. We will host Sunday suppers, pig roasts, pumpkin carvings and other fun events. We pledge to provide a welcoming atmosphere, and scrumptious local food and products of highest quality. We will provide rooms for lectures and informal meetings about food, cooking, and growing healthy crops.”

Throw in a clever, colorful marketing campaign (complete with hats, tee-shirts, banners and a painted van), and me thinks the Farmers Fare’s eye-catching approach to revitalizing community and supporting local farmers just may just catch on.

And that’s a wonderful thing.

Cookbook Madness

Nov 18

Posted by dawn in Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

I’m in love with a cookbook. I keep flipping through it, re-reading recipes, running my hands across the pages and gazing at the gorgeous photos for long, longing moments. “But wait,” you say. “Isn’t that normal for you foodie types?” Well, maybe for others, but not for me.

A section from Mad Hungry by Lucinda Scala Quinn

While I’ve always revered creative food photography, I’ve mostly treated cookbooks — from Julia’s masterpiece to Jamie’s latest — as utilitarian.

But not this one. Perhaps it is special. Perhaps I am mending my ways.

It is Mad Hungry by Lucinda Scala Quinn.

Purchased at Rabelais (of course!) in late October, it has earned an honored spot at my bedside. I’ve scoured through every page – and have yet to cook a thing! It’s more memoir — a love letter to the family meal — than pure cookbook. With the subtitle Feeding Men & Boys – Recipes, Strategies and Survival Techniques, Quinn tosses out advice (never be caught without bacon) and opinion (men love hot sauce) in between more detailed counsel on shopping with children and how to stock a guy-friendly pantry.

I don’t have sons, or even kids, and I’m devouring every word of it.

It probably doesn’t hurt that Jennifer S. Muller, the brilliant designer behind the look of the new Maine Magazine, lent her creative eye to the cleverly structured pages. Simple graphics, spot color and cunning use of pull-out sections make it a joy to peruse.

Each recipe starts with either a family story or a tidy justification for its inclusion. While none are elaborate — they range from “perfect fried egg every time” to “roast leg of lamb with lemon, garlic and oregano” — they all touch on home and hearth.

Quinn’s not shy about sharing her views, “Make boys eat breakfast. Brainwash them; it works. Tell them they’ll be smarter, have fewer zits, anything.” She somehow manages to scold, cajole and pontificate in a way that is accessible and charming. Her suggestions and theories aren’t groundbreaking, but are presented with humor and intent.

I guarantee, even the most seasoned gourmand will learn a thing or two.

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