Archive for category Stores & Purveyors

Go Get Gorgeous

Dec 31

Posted by dawn in Snacks & Street Food, Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

Sure it’s Maine in (almost) January, but my iPhone tells me the temps are topping 40 today and 50 tomorrow. It’s a regular heat wave!

The logo alone tells you its great!

My advice? Get thee to the newly opened Gorgeous Gelato (434 Fore Street) and celebrate this balmy bliss with a creamy cold mound of sheer joy. I stopped in yesterday and tasted my way through half a dozen flavors (the proprietor will happily hand you mini spoonfuls to try) and each one was better than the next.

Wicked, wicked good. Or, more appropriately, “Molto, molto buona.” With recipes hauled from their homeland, the husband and wife team are crafting the real deal here.

I nibbled a lush Panna Cotta, a nutty Pistachio and a few Italian favorites (A chocolate chip-ish Stracciatella and a fruitcake-like Bosco) before narrowing my choices. A rich, eggy Almond tempted me with it’s marzapan-like vigor, but I settled on the sensational Cinnamon.

Not too sweet or potent — but certainly not subtle — the flavor was far from the “red hot” style of so many American ice creams. Instead, it was pure spice.

My only mistake was pairing it with the classic Chocolate. Wonderfully dark and fierce, the intense cocoa strangled the softer tones of the cinnamon. I should have known better!

Made daily on site, Gorgeous’ gelato is whip-soft, fresh and concentrated.

If you question it’s old-world authenticity, simply chat with the owner awhile. His charming accent (and firm opinions on espresso) will remove any doubt.

Tags: authentic gelato, gorgeous gelato, Italian-style gelato in Maine, Portland Maine gelato

Cupcake Coterie

Nov 24

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Snacks & Street Food, Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

Cupcakes were neatly tucked into the “childhood” section of my memory – wedged between fingerpainting and falling off the monkey bars. I hadn’t eaten one – by choice at least – in 35 years.

Then Uke called. Cupcake throwdown. Her house.

Cupcakes await our taste testing.

Baffled by a national “gourmet cupcake” craze (as well as Portland’s own, growing mini-psychosis), I accepted her invitation out of curiosity and the desire to reacquaint myself with the tiny, seductive pastries.

Cupcakes are spreading into America’s urban areas – and waistlines – at an alarming rate. Google “cupcake craze” and you’ll see what I mean. Portland is no exception. From the “farm to table” cupcakes of Tulips Cupcakery to the vegan offerings of Cakeface – cupcakes have arrived in Maine.

Big time.

So. . . there we were last Saturday night. Kate (from The Blueberry Files) and I huddled with Uke in her kitchen. Cupcakes covered one entire counter.

Here’s what happened:

The Mission: Try 12 cupcakes from 7 local bakeries. In one hour. Can you say “sugar rush”?

Approach: We devoured cupcakes from both established and newly sprouted bakeries – from classically baked to vegan/gluten free.

Contestants: Scratch, Rosemont, Tulips Cupcakery, Cakeface, Katie Made Bakery, Two Fat Cats, and One Fifty Ate.

Method: To achieve parity, we grouped them into four taste categories: Vanilla, Chocolate, Spiced Fruit and Vegan/Gluten-Free

Vanilla Grouping – Tulips’ Madagasgar Vanilla Bean vs. Katie Made’s Vanilla.
This one wasn’t even close. Tulips’ cake was moist and pliant. Frosting rich and creamy with an intense vanilla wallop. Delightful. Katie Made’s was dry and borderline stale. Topped with a pasty, plastic frosting reminiscent of playdough, I had trouble choking it down. Don’t mean to be harsh, but it was bad. I have to think it wasn’t exactly fresh. At least I hope not. It did look pretty though – lots of sprinkles on top. And, my cohorts swore it tasted better with coffee. But, let’s be honest – what doesn’t?

Aftermath of the cupcake coterie.

Chocolate Grouping – Two Fat Cats’ Chocolate vs. Rosemont’s Guinness Chocolate vs. Scratch’s Black Forest Chocolate.
Two Fat Cats’ cupcake – chocolate with white icing – was the embodiment of that childhood memory. Super-sweet frosting – more sugar than fat. Cake full of air like a Ho Ho. Not bad. But, alas, not my style and (lightbulb!) probably the reason cupcakes haven’t crossed my lips in decades. Rosemont’s was the flip side. Not like a cupcake at all. Compressed. Heavy. Slightly bitter from the beer and dark chocolate bits. Frosting more a thick glaze. Good, but nothing to rave about.

Scratch’s on the other hand – OMG. Fluffy, rich, dense, moist. Melt-in-your-mouth buttercream frosting in perfect proportion to the cake. Fruit filling tasted of cherry – not sugar. A masterpiece.

Spiced Fruit Grouping – Tulips’ Pumpkin vs. Scratch’s Banana Cream Pie vs. One Fifty-Ate’s Apple Spice with Brown Sugar Cream Cheese Frosting.
Tulips’ pumpkin was – again – solid. Flavorful, not too sweet. An even grain to the cake – not too many “air holes.” Maybe a tad undercooked. Methinks the baker’s fresh, Maine ingredients – cage-free eggs, natural butters, local dairy, unbleached flour – showed through. Quite a treat.

One Fifty Ate’s spiced apple surprised me. Flat, with a mere schmear of frosting – I wasn’t expecting much. Instead, I got a lovely mouthful of apple bread with cream cheese. It just barely qualified as a cupcake, though. Too subtle. Too spongy.

Scratch’s (ahem) took the cake for the second time, however. Pure velvety banana essence. Light cream flavor in the frosting. Wonderful.

Vegan/Gluten-Free Grouping (all from Cakeface) – Mocha Chip Mocha vs. Spiced Chocolate. Hazelnut Maple vs. Hazelnut Mocha.
Okay, yes, we segregated these. It was a texture issue. Can you blame us? We also wanted to be fair. Made from ingredients such as white rice, quinoa, buckwheat, xanthan gum, soy milk, fake butter and ground flax (subbing for eggs) we were dealing with apples and oranges, people.

To my astonishment, I really liked two of these – Hazelnut Maple and Spiced Chocolate. The maple one was intense – the most fragrant cupcake of the night, by far. It’s aroma filled the room the moment Uke pulled it from the bag. Spiced chocolate offered shaved chocolate overtones and a wave of cinnamon with each bite. The two mocha ones just didn’t work for me, though. Somehow the cakes were too flaky, the frosting too sandy. Strange.

All-in-all, the evening succeeded in re-opening my eyes to the world of cupcakes. And reinforcing why Scratch simply kicks ass.

Blogger’s Note: I titled this post “coterie” ‘cuz I just adore one of its definitions (“a group of prairie dogs occupying a communal burrow”), which soooo describes how it felt in Uke’s warm kitchen shoveling cupcakes into my piehole.

Tags: Cakeface, Gourmet cupcakes, Maine cupcakes, Portland Maine Bakeries, Rosemont Market, Scratch Bakery, Tulips Cupcakery, Two Fat Cats

Among the Atmosphere

Aug 31

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

It’s a small Asian convenience store plopped on a patch of cracked cement and brittle grass. Awning – faded. Pepsi sign – peeling. Inside, the proprietor’s daughter obsessively plays a noisy, hand-held video game. In the sweltering 90-degree August heat, the low-ceilinged market cum restaurant smothers with sticky air and spices.

Adam enters Vientiane Restaurant and Market

The perfect time for take-out, you say? Naw, I love atmosphere – the good, the bad and the ugly – and this place has atmosphere in spades.

So, Adam and I stay and sweat through the spiciest curry we’ve eaten so far on this Thai-o-rama journey.

But more on the food in a bit.

Doubling as a specialty food market, Vientiane stocks the wares vital to Thai home cooking. Shelves overflow with varied sizes of Sriracha sauce. Packets of Gogi and Agar-Agar powder lay about in bins. Rows pack can upon can of whole palm seed, jackfruit, bamboo shoots, water chestnuts (both Dragonfly and Twin Elephant brands) and langans.

Side note: Nope, I don’t know what a langan is either – and a quick web search proved fruitless. Anyone know?

Coolers chill green and jasmine teas, sodas, and a pre-fab Thai Iced Tea called Honey Bee that turns out to be sickeningly saccharine — yet enticingly addictive.

Red curry chicken and one focused little girl

Settling into one of only four tables, we have only moments to survey our surroundings and drum our fingers on the mint-green laminate top before the food arrives. It’s steaming and pre-packed in wafer-thin, to-go containers.

How convenient.

Our waitress thoughtfully sets the piping hot aluminum on little hand-cut cardboard trays to prevent finger burns. We slide them around the table and fill our Styrofoam plates with heaping piles. The little girl’s game honks and beeps.

Thick with coconut milk and flecked with red pepper, the red chicken curry starts my nose running like a good curry should. On this hot day, it also causes beads of moisture to form on my upper lip. Floating in the creamy sauce are crisp veggies – green beans, bamboo shoots, zucchini, and eggplant – as well as a ton of basil leaves. Overall curry effect: very spicy and very yummy.

Fresh and well-cooked, the Pad Thai pleases at first. Full of peanut flavor, with just-right noodles, plump shrimp and tender chicken, I think I’ve finally found a great Pad Thai. But, again, subsequent bites reveal a cloying sweetness that overpowers the positive. It’s nothing that a squeeze of lime and a tad more heat won’t cure. However, we are – again – limeless. Pad Thai score: slightly better than okay, bordering on the edge of good.

We also ordered a papaya salad, but at this point in the meal I’m beet-red and feeling a little faint, so we pack up (a quick endeavor, considering) and shuffle home.

Asian foodstuffs at Vientiane Restaurant and Market

Now, sitting here in the evening, I’m snacking on the salad — which is packing a pleasant punch, even if a mite stale and heavy on the fish sauce — and considering, with 10 restaurants down, where Vientiane fits into the Portland Thai food scene.

The food certainly doesn’t come close to Boda’s or even Pom’s. But, compared to the other neighborhood Thai restaurants, Adam and I both feel it fares quite well. Rather strongly, even.

The curry was quite nice and the atmosphere — authentic and weird — can’t be beat.

Blogger’s Note: This post is the tenth in a series of Thai restaurant reviews being conducted — and posted on the same day — by a group of Portland bloggers and writers. For other reviews, check out Portland Food Map.

Tags: Asian food and market in Portland Maine, Pad Thai in Maine, Portland Maine Thai restaurant, Portland ME Thai food, Portland Thai market, Vientiane restaurant

Simply too simple

Apr 19

Posted by dawn in Dining Events, Stores & Purveyors | 2 Comments

Despite the much-deserved win of fellow food blogger Joe at Portland Food Coma (whose wry writing about outlandish culinary adventures I greatly admire), I’ve been left scratching my head at many of this year’s Food & Drink winners of the Phoenix’s “best of.”

Very few of my picks prevailed.

But that’s not the problem, really. The problem is the too basic, outdated structure of the list itself. While some categories are widely obvious (Novare Res for “best bar and beer selection” – duh), most are just too damn broad.

I’ve argued before that sub-categories are needed (see my “best pizza” argument here) and Coffee By Design’s win for “best coffee shop” seals that deal for me. While their beans are good and I’ve been known to grab a latte on the go – ya’ll really think CBD deserves to beat Bard for coffee shop?

REALLY?

I’d pick CBD for “best coffee chain” or “best bean selection,” but for pure coffee shop atmosphere and barista skills? Bard – hands down.

I’m gonna hear it now from you Arabica people – and that’s kinda my point. . .

The list is simply too simple for the culinary nuances of Portland and the voracious opinions of its dining population.

And that is a shame.

Bountiful Broue

Feb 26

Posted by dawn in Bar Scene, Dining Events, Stores & Purveyors | 1 Comment

Rain was pelting in sideways sheets and the wind was a ‘howlin. Not much could tempt me out on a night like that. Except Belgian-style beer, that is.

Unibroue's "anniversary" ales paired well with meats and cheeses.

Specifically, Belgian-style re-fermented Canadian beer sporting noir-ish labels that depict Quebecois folklore.

Novare Res Bier Cafe held what I can only describe as a seriously kick-ass, nine-beer Unibroue tasting last night. It was well worth getting drenched in the downpour.

Richard, the Unibroue rep, was cheerful, knowledgeable, and told damn good stories. Something about a flying horse and something else about a devil. Well, anyway, I truly did learn so much about these strong, (mostly 9%) award-winning ales that my head is still spinning.

Er. . .or, maybe I’m just a tad hungover (time for some Hair of the Kahn?).

Best-selling golden ale La Fin Du Monde kicked off the evening with its champagne-like effervesence. Triple wheat Don De Dieu followed right on its heels. But the evening really got swinging when the corks popped on the next few beers — Unibroue’s three, hard-to-find anniversary ales and its out-of-stock strong amber, Seigreuriale. Novare Res owner, Eric, matched these four with a savory selection of meats and cheeses.

What I (and many others) particularly love about Unibroue ales is that they pair exceedingly well with food. Balanced and full bodied, these brews have character and complex taste, yet they don’t take your tastebuds hostage (like say, a Victory HopDevil does — albeit in a good way).

Edition 2005, mahogany colored with a rich head of foam, was my favorite of the anniversaries. Paired with a Tuscan ham and blue cheese, the beer’s dark spice and cinnamon balanced the bite of the blue. Adam preferred the Unibroue 17, an intensely malty dark ale with mocha accents. We both loved the Seigreuriale — as did everyone else in the room. Its subtle notes of citrus and apricot tamed the salty salami and pungent New Hampshire landaff.

Quatre Centieme, a frothy blonde ale, held its own as a gingery palate cleanser before the dessert course. Then, hauled out with a bit of theatrics, gooey raspberry-filled donuts helped prove how Trois Pistoles conquers sweetness. Black and port-like, the popular dark ale is perhaps my go-to pick of Unibroue’s easy-to-finds.

Capping off the evening was a display of versatility by the strangely delicious Quelque Chose. Served three ways — lightly chilled, on the rocks, and steeped to 130 degrees — the ripe cherry, clove and honey flavors presented themselves in widely varying degrees. Fruity and refreshing, the iced version was my choice. I promptly pictured myself on a tropical beach sipping a frosty glass — fanned by palm-frond wielding muscle men.

All in all — a fantastic evening with a truly magnificent brewery. I’ll let Adam’s photos tell the rest of the story:

The hand-chalked Unibroue sign announcing the event.

Happy campers sample the brews.

The organizer of a Boston-based barrel-tasting event poses with his wife and oversized Unibroue bottle labels.

The three preparations of Quelque Chose: (From left: lightly chilled, heated and iced).

Coasters bearing Unibroue's distinctive logo.

Trois Pistoles tamed the sweetness of the gooey raspberry filled donut.

Tags: Belgian Beer, Novare Res Bier Cafe, Portland Maine beer cafe, Portland ME bar, Unibroue

At Home at Homegrown

Feb 21

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

Feeling the effects of too many donuts and too much pig belly, I wandered into Homegrown Herb and Tea a few days ago in search of dietary deliverance.

The Kapha Kick tisane at Homegrown Herb and Tea

Despite its proximity to my East End home, I’d never been to the Munjoy Hill tea café before Friday. An error I’m glad to have finally corrected.

Perched on a stool, I perused the menu’s dizzying array of “to order” ayurvedic teas and herbal tisanes. Caught up in the amusing names and detailed descriptions (how could you not love a hangover cure called “Hair of the Khan”?), my ordering decision slowed to a snail’s pace.

Finally, I settled on Kapha Kick – it’s promise to “lift my soul” sounded like the perfect solution to overindulgence. I slowly slurped the tasty mixture of ginger, damiana, cardamon and diced apple peel and pondered eating something.

Homegrown offers a daily soup option in the cooler months (Sept-April) and a daily salad option in the summer (June-August). May’s a mystery.

Friday’s crock pot special — an herby lentil soup – was full of health and vigor. Loaded with carrots, celery, potato and spice, it pleased with a garlicky broth and heady steam. The accompanying rosemary crumpet — while a tad too chewy for me — soaked up the hearty stew just fine.

Drawn back to Homegrown again on Saturday, I tried one of the limited-time seasonal tisanes that had caught my eye the day before. Dense with coconut milk and the scent of lavender, the Coco-Kava was a revelation. Creamy and lightly spiced with cocoa and sedating kava-kava, the milky liquid was slightly sweet and soothing to both body and mind.

Owner Sarah Richards measures out a tea order in the background.

Other preparations now firmly on my “to try” list are the Yoga Tea — a mixture of gotu kola, Soloman’s seal, sage, ginger, rose petals and spearmint — and a wicked spicy sounding conconction, called El Mexicano Por Favor, that features cumin, allspice, cayene, and — get this — sarsaparilla.

While I enjoyed everything I ate and drank, my most enduring impression of Homegrown has little to do with food — or even tea — and everything to do with watching owner Sarah Richards handle a very busy Saturday afternoon.

Fluid and graceful, she balanced competing demands with the precision of an aerial artist. At each door chime, Sarah would raise her gaze to smile at the newcomer before pivoting on her heel to simultaneously grind a custom tisane mix, ring up an order and tease her assistant, Jewel.

Seating areas swelled to capacity, and still new folks poured into the small Congress Street space. Every few minutes a regular bustled in to grab pre-packaged tea satchels to go. Sarah would pause for a hug or to query a customer’s enjoyment before tapping a glob of honey into a large pottery pitcher or pouring a steaming stream of water into an oversized cup.

The service was measured and fairly paced despite the imbalance of worker to guest – a feat only explained by the warm attention and enduring calm of Sarah and Jewel.

Methinks Portland is a cozier place because of Sarah and her staff. If you haven’t already, give Homegrown a try – it’s like entering a welcoming embrace.

Tags: Homegrown Herb and Tea, Maine Ayurvedic teas and herbs, Portland Maine Tea Shop, Portland ME herbs and tisanes

Farmers Fare in Rockport

Nov 22

Posted by dawn in Outside Portland, Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

A farm-to-table, back-to-the-land mentality is – blessedly – nothing new in Maine. The work and dedication of organizations such as Cultivating Community are deeply rooted here. So I was surprised that I was actually surprised by a beautiful new store, farm, and gathering place that recently sprouted up in Rockport.

Farmers Fare in Rockport - in a photo from the company's website

I popped by the 8-week old Farmers Fare during a mid-November mid-coast excursion. Local fruits and vegetables, an authentic butcher and deli (think pheasant sausage and fresh quail eggs), still-warm baked goods and hearty prepared foods – all were housed in a massive structure the size of a New England Barn. Four surrounding acres featured demonstration vegetable gardens, native plants, edible landscaping and open space for public gatherings.

It was Rosemont Market mixed with Turkey Hill Farm — on steroids.

The Farmers Fare website outlines the company’s mission as, “to bring a contemporary interpretation to traditions that have always enriched our lives. We will host Sunday suppers, pig roasts, pumpkin carvings and other fun events. We pledge to provide a welcoming atmosphere, and scrumptious local food and products of highest quality. We will provide rooms for lectures and informal meetings about food, cooking, and growing healthy crops.”

Throw in a clever, colorful marketing campaign (complete with hats, tee-shirts, banners and a painted van), and me thinks the Farmers Fare’s eye-catching approach to revitalizing community and supporting local farmers just may just catch on.

And that’s a wonderful thing.

Cookbook Madness

Nov 18

Posted by dawn in Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

I’m in love with a cookbook. I keep flipping through it, re-reading recipes, running my hands across the pages and gazing at the gorgeous photos for long, longing moments. “But wait,” you say. “Isn’t that normal for you foodie types?” Well, maybe for others, but not for me.

A section from Mad Hungry by Lucinda Scala Quinn

While I’ve always revered creative food photography, I’ve mostly treated cookbooks — from Julia’s masterpiece to Jamie’s latest — as utilitarian.

But not this one. Perhaps it is special. Perhaps I am mending my ways.

It is Mad Hungry by Lucinda Scala Quinn.

Purchased at Rabelais (of course!) in late October, it has earned an honored spot at my bedside. I’ve scoured through every page – and have yet to cook a thing! It’s more memoir — a love letter to the family meal — than pure cookbook. With the subtitle Feeding Men & Boys – Recipes, Strategies and Survival Techniques, Quinn tosses out advice (never be caught without bacon) and opinion (men love hot sauce) in between more detailed counsel on shopping with children and how to stock a guy-friendly pantry.

I don’t have sons, or even kids, and I’m devouring every word of it.

It probably doesn’t hurt that Jennifer S. Muller, the brilliant designer behind the look of the new Maine Magazine, lent her creative eye to the cleverly structured pages. Simple graphics, spot color and cunning use of pull-out sections make it a joy to peruse.

Each recipe starts with either a family story or a tidy justification for its inclusion. While none are elaborate — they range from “perfect fried egg every time” to “roast leg of lamb with lemon, garlic and oregano” — they all touch on home and hearth.

Quinn’s not shy about sharing her views, “Make boys eat breakfast. Brainwash them; it works. Tell them they’ll be smarter, have fewer zits, anything.” She somehow manages to scold, cajole and pontificate in a way that is accessible and charming. Her suggestions and theories aren’t groundbreaking, but are presented with humor and intent.

I guarantee, even the most seasoned gourmand will learn a thing or two.

Hake at Home

Nov 6

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Stores & Purveyors | 1 Comment

I’ve avoided writing about our at-home cooking because this blog really isn’t about that. But, when you live with such a wonderful cook and have such great ingredients from local purveyors, it certainly deserves mention once in awhile. Adam picked up some fresh catch from Harbor Fish Market and made one of my favorites last night – Proscuitto-Wrapped Hake.

Adam's half-eaten proscuitto-wrapped hake

I’m more of a recipe-following type. Adam is the true kitchen creative. I mostly act as his sous chef and have evolved into a celebrated salad maker among my peeps. My killer homemade dressings are the key (if I like you I may tell you about my recently created whiskey/olive/mustard vinaigrette).

Adam knocks around the kitchen making a mess and stewing up great scents. He tends to braise most meats and then finish them in the oven in a fragrant sauce. He’s a master of sauces.

Last night’s fish started (as most great dishes do) with shallots and garlic in butter.

Once the shallots become translucent, simmer with white wine and chicken stock.
Add some tomato paste and chopped kalamatas to taste.
Wrap the hake in proscuitto (keep the slices thin).
Plop the fish into the pan and cover with thin-sliced fresh tomatoes and lemon.
Salt and pepper over the top and throw in the oven for 15-20 minutes at 400 degrees.
Make sure the proscuitto is getting crispy on the edges before you pull it out.

Serve with a spinach salad and glass of Pinot Noir or lemon-infused vodka.

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