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Much ado about a fast food burger

Jan 20

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Outside Portland | 1 Comment

Okay. I’ll try and keep this in perspective. The double-pattied burger was pretty tasty and was certainly light-years better than most fast food burgers. I mean, unlike my last Burger King experience (years ago) it didn’t cause massive gastrointestinal distress or make me feel like I’d swallowed a pregnant gerbil.

The grand logo of Elevation Burger.

I appreciate the company’s organic, fresh philosophy and commitment to producing food that can’t sit on a counter for a year and remain virtually unchanged.

The use of bamboo, sorghum and recycled materials in the store architecture itself and other sustainable practices (such as donating waste oil and use of post-consumer content paper) are admirable. And, the optional ingredient list earned my respect right off the bat. You sure won’t find caramelized onions, balsamic mustard and hot pepper relish at Wendy’s.

Bottom line: It truly is a good option for a quick bite if you happen to be in the Maine Mall area.

But it ain’t no In-N-Out Burger.

I feel Elevation Burger, with a newly opened franchise on Westbrook Ave., goes awry on a few fronts.

1. The Beef. I get the idea. Less saturated fat, blah, blah, blah. But organic, grass-fed cows don’t really make the best meat for a burger. It works beautifully for steaks, but – IMHO – burgers depend on a good mix of beef and fat mixed together. Without a healthy dose of fat, the hamburger tastes kinda empty. When I plucked a chunk of the meat away from all the fixins, my reaction was, “Meh.”

2. The Fries. The olive oil fries (again, I appreciate the gesture) were flat-out soggy and tasted like oil rather than good, fresh potato. In-N-Out’s approach of cooking fries in 100% pure, cholesterol-free vegetable oil produces a crisper, more flavorful fry.

The double-pattied Elevation Burger.

3. The Price. I was a tad tweaked that I had to pay an extra $.40 for the good cheddar cheese. This brought my burger and fries alone to $9.00 before tax. Not to say it’s not worth the price compared to other fast food restaurants, but for $4.00 more I could be enjoying crispy hand cut fries and noshing an awesome, medium rare burger in a brioche bun right in downtown Portland (granted, no tip is necessary at Elevation).

I’m willing to say that my expectations were too high. Perhaps 13 years in San Francisco enjoying In-N-Out corrupted me. I really do give Elevation props for their “closest thing to healthy” approach and general commitment to sustainability, but why not go all the way and remove the high fructose corn syrup from the premises? A whiz-bang high tech soda machine does offer seltzer water as an option among the Coke products (great for someone like me who shuns traditional soda), but why not a healthier approach on that front?

When you’re running to Home Depot or a movie and feel peckish, there are many worse options than Elevation Burger. The burger WAS pretty good. And, you could feel about good eating it. I guess that is what really matters. Besides, the closest In-N-Out is in Nevada.

For other perspectives on Elevation Burger, read the write-ups at The Blueberry Files, Chubby Werewolf, and Edible Obsessions.

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Book Review O-Rama: Odd Bits

Dec 12

Posted by dawn in Home Cooking & Baking, Outside Portland | 5 Comments

Granted, I’d never cooked a pig’s head until a few weeks ago (more on that below), but offal has been an awfully big part of my life for years (as have shanks, livers and marrow). Brains and tongues of various creatures enliven trips abroad, and sojourns to Au Pied du Cochon for its namesake dish fill my calendar whenever possible.

A great holiday gift for serious cooks.

I was even born into eating bits. A “whole animal” philosophy has governed my, um – let’s say “down home” – south Georgia relatives for decades.

So Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal seemed right down my alley for this food blogger “o-rama” assignment (Made possible by our friends at Rabelais. Also, check out other books and reviews here). A cookbook dedicated to poaching, roasting, braising, and stewing the wobbly, dense, bony, protruding and down-right weird parts of animals?

Sign me up.

So what did I think of it?

The review part

For the most part, I loved it. Author Jennifer McLagan (renown scribe of James Beard Award-winning, Fat) presents most recipes with charming personal stories and clever insight.  A dish for Navarin (lamb cheek stew) reads as a wistful love letter to her dear French friends Ted and Giselle (Their English. . .was so full of wonderful 40’s slang I felt like I was in a black and white movie”) while also crisply instructing (“Pat the lamb cheeks dry and season well with salt and pepper.”).

Quotes from other notable food writers and chefs sprinkle each chapter with whimsy, gravity – or a wink and a nod (“Chef Daniel used to say that they should have the feel of a firm, young breast.” – Susan Spicer, referring to the thymus gland of a calf.)

Interim sections discuss the culinary origins and historic uses of such funky animal nether-regions as the cockscomb. Did you know the wiggly red growth crowning a chicken’s head was a favorite of Catherine de Medicis, wife of French king Francois I? Now you do.

Best of all, McLagan makes every recipe sound manageable – be they challenging, day-long adventures or quick dinners. Many re-imagine the common with odd bits. Ravoli of Brains and Morels, for example, sounds simple and succulent. While copping to it as a way to sneak brain to the unsuspecting, she insists that the recipe also plays to calf brains’ rich texture. I’ve dog-eared that page for a future meal – if I can find brain anywhere in the mad-cow fearing US!

From blood sausages to goat shoulder to several preparations of the much-maligned tripe, McLagan tackles it all. Some recipes made Adam cringe in the reading (Testicles with Caramelized Onion and Double Smoked Bacon) and others barely qualify as “odd bitty” (Wild Boar Shanks with Cranberries and Chocolate). One I’m particularly looking forward to trying is Pig’s Tail and Rabbit Stew. Not only does the combination of mild meat and flavorful fat sound delicious, but I cracked up at her frank instruction, “If your rabbit comes with its head, add it in with any trimmings to the stew.”

My only issue with the book was the long, dual-purpose “preaching to the choir while scolding the unbelieving” introduction. It set me on edge. Perhaps not every reader considers sweetbreads a staple like I do, but surely those who would pluck this tome off the shelf would be cognizant of humane animal husbandry, no? Do we really need paragraphs lecturing us about how “today we are so removed from the sources of our food that we rarely think of meat coming from living, breathing animals.” I think not.

Head of the beast

To test McLagan’s recipes, I decided to dive into the deep end and roast what she calls a “cornucopia of odd bits” – the pig’s head. Or, rather, my friend Evelyn decided and I decided I was up for it! In fact, Adam and I took a back seat to these foodie phenom friends (Evelyn – who researched and purchased the head – and her husband, David) and we tackled the challenge in their commercial kitchen in Vermont. The night before Thanksgiving (crazy, I know). While the fat level in the head makes pork belly seem like child’s play, the flavor is superb. Jowl, brain and snout are greasy-luscious gifts from the Gods. Crisp cheek skin and ears are an adult (and MUCH better!) version of pork rinds.

While I’ve included McLagan’s ingredients below, for cooking instruction, I highly recommend this video of acclaimed chef Fergus Henderson doing the deed.

Ingredients:

  • 1/2 pig’s head (about 5-1/4 pounds)
  • Course sea salt and ground pepper
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons lard
  • 2 Vidalia or other sweet onions, halved and thickly sliced
  • 6 cloves garlic
  • 1 bunch fresh thyme, 4 large rosemary springs, 4 juniper berries, crushed
  • 4 cups poultry stock
  • 4 cardamom pods, 2 star anise (broken into bits)
  • 1 tablespoon coriander seeds and 1 small dried red chile
  • 1/2 cup honey
  • 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar or verjuice
  • 1 bunch watercress, trimmed

Here’s our story in pictures:

Evelyn pulls the head out of the fridge

David frees her from plastic. Evelyn named her "tres cher," which I misheard as Cher at first!



Evelyn thanks tres cher properly while Adam looks on.

I wash off extra hairy bits from her teeth and jowl area.

She's ready to hit the oven.

A final baste and she's done.

Adam eats the eye. Doesn't he look thrilled!

Maxed out on fat!

We save the rest for stock and such.

Fall into Winter Favorites

Oct 20

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining, Informal Dining, Outside Portland | No Comments

As the temps drop my focus shifts to comfort food. The stewed and brothy. The ample and starchy. The earthy and rich. I scan menus for things I’d never consider in warmer weather. Cheesy noodles. Heavy sauces.

The Remedy. A wonderful cocktail at Kennebunk's 50 Local

I know, I know – I’m hardly alone in this. And, of course, restaurants embrace the season and showcase their heartier options. Never-the-less I humbly offer a little list of my four latest “fall into winter” favorites – two from here in Portland and two along coastal Maine.

And nary a one has meat!

Mushroom Tagliatelle
50 Local – Kennebunk
I’ve rarely tasted a better mushroom dish. Apparently, foraging fungi is a favorite pastime of chef David Ross and his 3-year-old son. It shows. Pungent earthy flavor and overtones of roasted garlic infuse every mouthful. Homemade tagliatelle pasta fresh and springy. Pecorino cheese adds a bonding creaminess.  While the mushrooms surely vary according to discovery, an online video of Ross shows him preparing the dish with black trumpets, hedgehog mushrooms, lobster mushrooms and chanterelles. Whatever the mixture, it’s truly marvelous. Dip in the restaurant’s thick and spongy focaccia bread and sip on a signature cocktail. It’s a cold weather meal to savor.

And, about that cocktail? If you’re like me and enjoy caramely liquors in the autumn and winter, don’t miss The Remedy – bourbon, cayenne simple syrup, lemon, and a gingered rim (see pic).

Ribollita
Ribollita – Portland
Okay, yes, this is their signature dish – available year round – but I only crave the hearty potage as late October arrives. Tuscany’s famous vegetable and bread soup is simmered to perfection at this Portland institution and warms me to my toes. As with everything that has peasant origins, the “from the earth” ingredients and basic presentation make Ribollita the ultimate comfort food. Pair it with the restaurant’s sizable Hearts of Romaine salad and a glass of Italian wine and you’ve got an affordable meal for around $20.


Shulte & Herr's spaetzle


Squash & Pesto Lasagna
Chase’s Daily – Belfast
We journeyed to the Midcoast for last Saturday’s Marshal Wharf Beer and Mussel Fest (totally worth the hangover) and – despite a swath of reserved tables – lucked into seats at Chase’s counter the night before. An acclaimed vegetarian breakfast and lunch destination, Chase’s only serves dinner on Friday’s. I’m hearby advising you to make reservations, stay the night and avail yourself of this lasagna. I’ve never, EVER raved about lasagna before. In fact, I didn’t even order it this time. I ate over half of Adam’s and have dreamed about the dish ever since. Layers of thin and crisped wide noodles housed “fresh from the farm” golden squash, spinach, cheese and a light pesto. Seemingly so simple, but stunning. A side of crispy kale also was spot on. On second thought, skip the reservation and sit at the counter. Soak in Chase’s “boho” vibe and enjoy the view of the kitchen.

Spaetzle
Schulte & Herr – Portland
I’ve loved every morsel I’ve eaten at this new German gem, but the Spaetzle takes the prize for “things I really want when it’s cold and rainy.”  The pile of swirly egg noodles topped with chives may not look like much (see pic), but it’s a filling feast that will pleasantly expand your stomach and make you crave a nap.  Carmelized onions and ementhal cheese (a type of Swiss) shift Schulte & Herr’s version to the sweet side, so I advise balancing with the crisp cucumber salad doused with dill.

Blogger’s Note: Check out Kate’s list of Fall & Winter drinks at The Blueberry Files.

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Rolling in the Lobstah’

Aug 8

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Outside Portland, Snacks & Street Food, Stores & Purveyors | 8 Comments

Not being a native Mainer, I’d never truly cottoned to the appeal of the lobster roll. Just seemed like a waste of crustacean on a glorified hot dog bun.

The awesome roll at the Brunswick Diner in Brunswick

Then, about a year ago, I watched Adam choke down a far-from-perfect specimen in a place whose name claimed the opposite.

That didn’t help.

So, I stuffed the idea of this state-sanctioned sandwich onto the far reaches of my mental shelf. And there it sat – until a group blogger assignment dusted it off.

When A. requested that we pick a place – I stalled. Prejudice breeds lethargy in me and I didn’t call “dibs” fast enough. By the time I rallied, the Portland area “biggies” had been snagged. Perennial Phoenix “best of” winner Portland Lobster Company, as well as Cape Elizabeth’s Lobster Shack and the venerable Old Port Sea Grill had slipped through my net.

Stories of stomach upset kept me from sampling another local institution. I did try the lobster sandwich at the Porthole, but, in a last-minute flurry of confusion and missed opportunities, I grudgingly (hey – it was already written!) ceded the review to Kate. I did include my photos of the Porthole below, though, and tend to agree with her review’s sentiments.

So – what was a blogger to do?

I got outta town.

Brunswick Diner - $13 (without sides)

Set on the busy intersection where Route 1 bends north from its journey east from Highway 95, the Brunswick Diner itself is an intersection – of cute and crusty. Opened in 1946, it ain’t no retro throwback. It’s the real deal with naugahyde stools, a classic jukebox and locals milling about.

Once featured on the Today Show for its roll, the diner’s been riding the wave ever since. I’d seen the boastful banner (see photo) on treks to the Midcoast, and, being a skeptical soul, decided to put it to the test.

Billy's large lobster roll and sides.

It truly was a revelation. Adam (who demurred from purchasing his own roll due to “a lack of hunger” – always a dubious claim)  practically arm-wrestled me for it in the end. Heavy on fresh lobster (with a healthy amount of the succulent claw) and light on the mayo, it featured a crisp lettuce leaf and a generously buttered, split-top roll toasted to perfection. A seriously awesome sandwich. Simple. A credit to it’s genre. A roll that tempered my biases and made me hanker for more.

So, we tried another at –

Billy’s Chowder House, Wells – $19 (with sides)

Feeling mighty peckish after a photo shoot in York, we sojourned to Billy’s Chowder House in Wells on the way home. I’d spied the joint on Ricchio’s Maine mag list and determined to “go for two.”  It didn’t hurt that Joe had also lauded the cocktails.

Rolling up to the valet (yes – really – the valet) at 5:30, we were shocked at the crowd of cars – until we strolled into the bar. Just about every hair was blue. Ignoring Adam’s snarky comment about our compatriots “getting liquored up before Dancing with the Stars,” I settled onto a stool and was soon sipping a cold one and enjoying a view of the marsh.

Lobster sandwich at the Porthole.

A communal vibe and a lobster roll as big as my forearm (you can opt for a $13 “junior roll” – but why?) made the evening sing. While I missed the lettuce of the Brunswick version and wasn’t quite as enthralled with the bun, the lobster on Billy’s roll was just as perfectly cooked (no rubber here!) – the mayo as lovingly balanced. A crunchy side of slaw (I swapped out the fries) and a pickle elevated the experience.

And, I admit, it probably didn’t hurt that Billy’s early-evening patrons made me feel quite young for a gal in her mid-forties.

Portland Lobster Roll Search

Now a firm fan, I tried one last time today to sample a lobster roll in Portland. Hearing tell of the sandwich at the new food cart, Lindy’s Lunch, I took a sweaty slog the breadth of Commercial Street just now – narrowly missing a downpour. While I spied Eric’s Pizza Express and Jen’s Hot Dog’s, there was no sign of Lindy’s Lunch (at least on a Monday).  I even popped by Monument Square to no avail. Ah well, another time. . .

Blogger’s note: Visit Portland Food Map for a round-up and links to other blogger reviews of local lobster rolls.

Billy's Chowder House on Urbanspoon

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Filling up at Fuel

Mar 10

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining, Outside Portland | No Comments

Honoring the fact that this is Maine Restaurant Week (and not simply Portland Restaurant Week), Kate of The Blueberry Files and I decided to drag the men out of town and fill up at Fuel.

Adam's stellar Nicoise Salad at Fuel in Lewisto

Intrigued by the Lewiston restaurant’s reputation – not to mention its mouth-watering $30 special menu previewed on the MRW website – our hopes and expectations were high.

Were they met? Well, yes. . . and no. It was a night of highs and lows.

Adam loved his Nicoise Salad. Our shared Duck Rilettes appetizer was a revelation. My dessert a dream. But, Adam’s entree bitterly disappointed and M felt his side dish was – well – simply bitter.

Here’s the story.

The night veered a tad sideways early on when we discovered that instead of a “choose one from every course” structure, the chef had paired the promoted dishes into concrete threesomes. So, if you wanted the Pork Belly Cassoulet, you also got the Nicoise Salad and a silly “jellies and truffles” dessert. Faced with that restriction, Kate, M and I decided the only valid choice was to fully commit to the chocolate torte with Maine sea salted caramel, malt powder and Guinness ice cream. I mean, come on!

It proved wise.

Our first course was white asparagus cooked sous vide then grilled. French for “under vacuum,” sous vide basically means sealed in a baggy and slowly simmered in a water bath.  An accompanying egg also was prepared sous vide. Sprinkled on top – a lovely crumble of brown butter bread crumbs. While tasty and rich, the asparagus inevitably got old after three spears, and we three soon jealously eyed Adam’s stellar Nicoise. Crunchy little bread crumbs couldn’t make up for the juicy Ahi slabs being devoured to my right. Adam was in heaven and M accurately declared,”Adam won this round!”

Fuel's amazing chocolate torte.

Luckily, M also ordered extra appetizers, which included the afore-mentioned, super-fabulous Duck Rilettes (is braised duck ever really bad?) and a briny charcuterie plate. Both top notch.

For mains, the triad received generous lamb sirloins paired with grilled radicchio, endive and grapes in a red wine sauce. Tender, robust and not the least bit gamey, the lamb came with a nice red center. It pleased, but lit no spark. No overtones of rosemary or soft, smoky haze.  Perfectly cooked, yet also ordinary. Curious.

While I love bitter and bold, M just couldn’t abide the (admittedly) biting flavor of the grilled radicchio and endive. He choose instead to dive into the cheddar-laced polenta cake that served as cheesy lamb cushion. Underwhelmed, Kate and I left ours mostly untouched.

Meanwhile, Adam stewed over his bowl of ham and beans. Pork Belly Cassoulet it was not. Salty, thoroughly cooked through and lacking even a remote jiggle of fat, it was a stretch to label it “belly” and Adam wasn’t pleased. He brought most of it home to be re-heated with eggs and toast “where it belongs.”

Adam was equally underwhelmed with his mini plate of odd jellied cubes and truffles — abandoning them to a full-on campaign to snag bites of my marvelous torte.

I thwarted him. Save Bresca’s buttermilk pannacotta, it was the best dessert I’ve eaten east of the Mississippi and I finished every bite.

So, what was my impression of Fuel?  I saw enough brilliance to go back – and order off the regular menu.

Fuel on Urbanspoon

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First Date Valentine

Feb 7

Posted by dawn in Bar Scene, Fine Dining, Informal Dining, Outside Portland | 4 Comments

A first date for Valentine’s Day is a patently absurd notion. Why put even more pressure on an already over-hyped holiday fraught with sexual tension? But, as the chosen “group blogger” theme this month, I had to post something.

Sonny's - the scene of my Valentine "dream date" with younger man, James Franco.

So I decided to run with the truly absurd.

I lured Adam into my scheme, and over dinner and a great bottle of wine, we devised “The Perfect Portland Celebrity First Dates” for ourselves. And not just one celebrity date, mind you, but three dates each with three chosen celebrities – one younger, one older – and one of our own generation.

MY DATES

The younger man date
James Franco – to Novare Res Bier Cafe, then Sonny’s
With roles as diverse as Sean Penn’s lover in Milk, the partier in Pineapple Express, and the outdoor adventurer/survivalist in 127 Hours, sexy Franco can’t be pigeon-holed. And, as a PhD candidate, he attends poetry classes at Yale. What’s hotter than that? I’d get him a little tipsy with a few 10% beers at Novare, then spice up the evening with Sonny’s Latin-inspired entrees. We’d keep the night sizzling by sipping pepper-infused tequila at Sonny’s bar.

The man of my generation date
Colin Firth – to Miyake, then Fore Street
This high-brow Brit would want the best, so I’d start at Miyake. Small. Colorful. Fresh. Perfectly packaged. The decor at Food Factory Miyake is itself a metaphor for this tiny Japanese bistro’s delicate delights. Super-fresh and expertly prepared, the sushi offerings would surely impress the Oscar-nominated star, no? Then, off to stellar desserts and cocktails at Fore Street, where we’d sink back in a squishy bar couch and make goo-goo eyes over a slice of Chocolate Souffle Cake.

The older man date
Richard Russo – to Caiola’s
Let’s face it, with nary a hipster in sight and the best comfort food in town, Caiola’s is the kind of cozy neighborhood restaurant where your cheeks turn rosy from wine and animated conversation. What better spot to pick the brain of an older (but cleverly cute) Pulitzer Prize winning novelist? As a Mainer, Russo would appreciate Caiola’s hand-crafted wooden tables and commitment to local, farm-fresh food. We’d stay late sipping coffee and discussing the brilliance of Empire Falls, Nobody’s Fool, and (my favorite Russo) Straight Man.

Adam outside Nosh. Waiting for Brian the animated dog?

ADAM’S DATES

Adam had no trouble picking the younger and older women (lovely Keira Knightly and striking Julianne Moore, respectively), but struggled mightily with the  “same generation” category. He finally chose – after completing the wine AND a couple Gin & Its – “that animated dog Brian from The Family Guy ‘cuz he seems like a great conversationalist.”

Okay. . .

To be fair, we’d discussed my dates first when fully sober, so his choices are a bit sketchy on the details (not to mention – one-third light on humans).

The younger woman date – “I’d take British beauty Keira to Grace, because she does all those period movies and I think the grandness of Grace would impress her.”

The older woman date – “I’d drive Julianne up the coast and woo the ageless redhead at Suzuki.” (Blogger’s note: we just saw The Kids Are Alright and I think the “red thong scene” has stayed with him.)

The same generation date – “Brian and I would grab brews and Pig Belly Apple Pie sandwiches at Nosh Kitchen Bar and discuss the events of the world.”

There you have it.

Blogger’s Note: This post is one of a group of “first-date Valentine” writings being posted today by Portland food bloggers. Visit Portland Food Map for information and links to other posts.

Fore Street on Urbanspoon
Sonny's on Urbanspoon

Beacon Hill Bust

Sep 17

Posted by dawn in Breakfast & Brunch, Fine Dining, Outside Portland | 7 Comments

Adam and I spent a few days in Boston for the Rush concert (yes Rush – we ARE that old AND that geeky) and took the opportunity to hit a few Beacon Hill hot spots.

Okay, so this photo has nothing to do with food, but it made me laugh. Where do you think the "specialty hooker entrance" might be? Yes, I have a 10-year-old boy's sense of humor.

While I know that it was not – of course – representational of all Boston’s food scene, I have to say that the West End certainly didn’t have much game. Clink sucked. Mooo. . . . was good, but WAAY overpriced and The Paramount was a flat-out joke.

I’ll elaborate.

But, before I do, I have to share a realization: Portland restaurants are gaining the rep – in large part – because of the presence of the chef-owners.  Not to take anything away from their hard-working sous chefs, line chefs and staffs, but the reason Bresca, Miyake and Bar Lola are consistently good is because Krista, Masa and Guy are (for the most part) THERE. They are committed and constantly creating.

So, back to Boston.

At Clink, located in the trendy Liberty Hotel, hungover line chefs and attention-starved waitresses seemed to run the show. Flirting was more on the agenda than serving. We received our wine and then lost our waitress to more important endeavors, such as chatting into the open kitchen. She must have felt me starring daggers into her back because she finally came to take our order. (And let me be clear, this was pre-concert, so it was early and the restaurant was practically empty.)

When the food came, I was sorry we’d bothered. The yellow fin tuna was days past its prime, the mussels uninspired and chewy, and the foie gras over-chilled. The meat in the goat curry was moist and flavorful, but the accompanying “homemade gnocci ” were simply flavorless gobs that managed to be both mealy and pasty. Truly a mess of a meal.

The next night’s dinner at Mooo. . . .was much better. A swank steak house with cream decor and dim lights, the place was packed and vibrant. The food was extremely good. Adam’s fries in his Steak Frites rivaled Duck Fat’s and our sauteed spinach was simply – and perfectly – cooked. My (ah-hem) beef with the joint? A 14-ounce New York Strip was $44 and it came with nothing.

Nothing.

A Napa Cabernet that I know to retail at $15 was listed for $65. An $8 Spanish Tempranillo was $42. This ain’t The French Laundry folks.

Now, on to the – apparently – celebrated neighborhood spot, The Paramount. Granted, we had one simple breakfast there instead of the much-acclaimed “diner” fare. But, if the overcooked eggs, undercooked potatoes and watered-down coffee are representational of, well,  anything – we just didn’t get it. Adam also was particularly annoyed at the non-neighborhoody marketing speak plastered on the walls. Attempting to explain their policy of not letting you sit down until you’ve ordered and paid, the faux-friendly phrasing just made us gag – “it may seem strange but it actually makes sure that the delicate balance of tables and guests is not upset – ensuring that you have a table when you need one”

A more honest approach would have been to say, “Its been working since 1937, so who are you to question? Just order your food from the distracted kitchen help, stand around for awhile, then try to guess when they throw your order on the counter. Got your food? Good. Now you can see if there is still a table left for you. If not, the john in back might be free.”

Overall – our Beacon Hill dining experience was a disappointing, overpriced, unfriendly bust.

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Pine State Palate Passions 2

Sep 5

Posted by dawn in Bar Scene, Informal Dining, Outside Portland, Snacks & Street Food | 3 Comments

Being originally from away and having just returned from too long being away (only to discover the wonderful new Portland food blog, From Away), I am happily back in town — ensconced in our new house — and of a mind to once again celebrate some of my Pine State Palate Passions. Whew!

The INCREDIBLE Maine Shrimp nigiri at Suzuki in Rockland

So here goes:

Best thing in a mini garbage pail. Bacon-dusted fries at Nosh. Since they corrected the meager-portion problem, the Congress Street kitchen bar is now consistently kicking ass and taking names with these crispy, fatty, chunky hunks of fried love sprinkled with the smoky, salty goodness of pig.

Best reason to eat on the sidewalk. Mushroom and cauliflower pizza at Otto’s. While I love all things Otto, this slice is pure earthiness on a crust. There’s something about leaning against a light pole, ripping off a cheesy bite and letting the oil run down my arm. Primal.

Best reason to get up early. Gingerbread from Standard Baking Co. Although the celebrated bakery never seems to run out of croissants and sticky buns, this mini-loaf – moist, sweet and spiced with loads of ginger – is often a goner by 9 am. Here’s me lobbying –  just buck up and bake more!

Best creamy mouth-burner. Thai chili ice cream at Mount Desert Island Ice Cream (on Exchange Street). While Gelato Fiasco’s caramel/sea salt is my usual frozen treat, lately I’ve developed a mini-addiction to this curiously piquant scoop. A serious cheek-flushing kick and peanutty flavors have firmly placed this ice cream on my go-to dessert list.

Best. Shrimp. Ever. The Maine shrimp nigiri at Suzuki in Rockland. Fresh from Mid-Coast waters and topping a mound of just-right sticky rice, this shrimp sushi pops open with a buttery-smooth sweetness that is simply out of this world.

Best cocktail Roger Sterling also would love. Gibson at Bar Lola. Two perfect, plump, house-pickled cocktail onions elevate Bar Lola’s version of this gin-soaked classic. Adam just adores it.

Best reason to drive to Westbrook. Maple Bacon doughnut at French Press Eatery in Westbrook. I still haven’t made it there for dinner (or even lunch), but the luscious taste of this decadently rich, dense pastry has burned a permanent place in my memory. What’s better than maple glaze and little crispy bits of bacon? Sigh.

C’est Magnifique

Mar 24

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining, Outside Portland | 1 Comment

We visited food heaven in Montreal last week. Evelyn and David – our uber-foodie friends from Vermont – planned each decadent instant. Adam and I went along for the ride.

Our uber-foodie friend Evelyn digs into her pig belly at Restaurant DNA in Montreal

And, oh, what a ride.

Trying to write – in flowing, descriptive prose – about the delights of this most culinary of North American cities has escaped my mind, pen and keyboard. I just can’t do the experience justice. Can’t.

So I offer this list of moments instead:

  1. Au Pied Du Cochon’s guinea hen liver mousse with sweet aspic and pickled pearl onions nearly brought me to my knees.
  2. The melt-on-your-tongue duck carpaccio did bring Adam and Evelyn to theirs. (Topped with simple shaved cheddar, an over-easy egg, button mushrooms, olive oil and salt and pepper – it shouldn’t have been as good as it was.) I think Evelyn called the velvety dish  “Freakin’ awesome” – repeatedly and loudly.
  3. Watching the line chefs spin, swerve, and bend was like viewing a chaotic, clattering, French-speaking ballet. Hint: Sit on stools 3 and 4 down from the door (out of 6 total) at the Food Bar – no pepper mills and olive oil bottles block the action in these prime seats.
  4. I felt my arteries harden from gazing – zombie-like – at plate after plate of poutine. Cheese curd, topped with fries cooked in duck fat, topped with gravy, finished with a melting pile of foie gras. Yowza! We opted for the foie gras terrine instead. Marvelous.
  5. At the chic brassiere, Holder, Adam ordered the BEST EVER beef tartare. Better even than a much-beloved version devoured in Paris a few years ago. Onion forward. Fatty, succulent meat. Touches of red pepper. It had me at first bite.
  6. Holder also yielded the most impressive restaurant “triage” I’ve ever witnessed. The waitress spilled Evelyn’s espresso on delivery. Five waiters converged, stripped the plates and butcher paper, flung on a new tablecloth and plopped down a fresh espresso. Within seconds. We hardly had time to blink.
  7. At funky Restaurant DNA near the river, my red onion soup with chicken liver dumplings filled me with joy. I mean it. I sat in a warm huddle of happiness – letting the fragrant steam fill my nostrils. Paired with La Barberie Rouse, a Quebec-brewed bitter red ale, it made for a sensory, savory lunch.
  8. Each morning we sipped flavorful espresso and munched fresh fruit and flaky, crackly – and not too sweet – chocolate croissants at our hotel – Le Petit Hotel on Rue Saint-Paul in Old Montreal. At $148 a night, this hip boutique hotel is a steal. Best beds and continental breakfast ever!

Now, not everything was wine and roses. Holder’s insane wine list mark-up drove us to cheap-ish Prosecco. The sauce on my gnocchi at DNA sadly resembled Chef Boyardee, and Adam’s chocolate pot de crème would cream Au Pied Du Cochon’s.

But, the things that were wonderful were out of this world wonderful.

Montreal is just a hair over 5 hours from Portland.

If you love food. Go.

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The Beloved Bistro

Mar 12

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining, Informal Dining, Outside Portland | 1 Comment

Entering a beloved neighborhood bistro is a welcoming embrace for the senses.

Pepper-crusted ahi at David's 388 in South Portland

Oil sizzles in a pan. A pungent haze smells of garlic and butter. Furtive glances flicker from tightly clustered diners. A hostess beams in greeting.

Crossing the threshold into David’s 388 in South Portland last night was — exactly — that.

Upscale, yet relaxed, the restaurant features painted tin ceilings, speckled drop lights and flickering candles on a smattering of two-tops. At the rear, a raised marble Chef’s Counter and four leather stools overlook a compact kitchen.

Ushered through the small, packed space we settled in at the counter. More of an eater than a cook, these “sneak a peek” food bars are just my speed. I felt immediately at home. Tensions of the day eased as I sipped a glass of Pinot Noir.

Order in, I shifted my attention to the action and watched Chef de Cuisine, Bo Byrne, shake and shuffle skillets of all sizes – steam billowing with scent. His assistant chef, Katie, molded little green balls of wasabi to pair with the night’s most popular dish – pepper crusted sushi rare tuna.

Adam opted for this ahi along with crispy duck potstickers as an appetizer. I choose a caprese salad and mushroom dusted haddock.

The Ahi: Served with a Szechwan citrus dipping sauce, the Ahi itself was pink and fresh with a plump sashimi texture. Pepper dominated, but did not overwhelm. Heat (red chile, maybe?) and sesame perfectly flavored the accompanying asparagus. A pile of soba noodles was the downer of the dish. Fixed too far ahead of serving, the noodles were squishy and listless — and lay there uneaten.

The exceptional mushroom-dusted haddock.

Crispy Potstickers: In a word – tasty. Very, very tasty. Hoisin-forward in flavor, the crunchy little pockets crackled when bitten and burst with sweetness and tang. Filled with tender duck, cabbage and carrots, they sat atop arugula riddled with tiny apricot chunks. Killer combination. Our only issue – a tad too oily.

Caprese Salad: While pleasantly — and simply — flavored with balsamic and salt, the salad was the night’s disappointment. Tomatoes were kinda mealy and the mozzarella uninspired. Scants sprigs of basil did little to help. Not totally bad, mind you, just boring.

Mushroom Dusted Haddock: The night’s BIG standout. Moist, meaty haddock encased in an earthy mushroom essence draped over a bed of savory risotto. Spinach, first steamed in vegetable stock, then braised to perfection by the artistic pour of a sizzling ragout, added a bright, fresh zip.

And – OMG — the ragout: a delicious blend of white button, shitake and oyster mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, leeks and white wine — finished with healthy splash of delicate clam broth and butter at the very end. Awesome.

The Service: Excellent, friendly, prompt and laid-back. Truly perfect. Our waitress, Jane (I asked, she didn’t offer – points in her favor), served with a wonderful mixture of warmth and efficiency. Bo and Katie juggled questions from me with poise and professionalism. All three made a point to thank us for coming.

Our Opinion: Mostly lovely food and a remarkably enjoyable dining environment.  We will certainly visit this welcoming neighborhood bistro again.

David's 388 Restaurant on Urbanspoon

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