Archive for category Informal Dining

Post Vacation Let-Down Cure: Part I – Authentic Italian

May 26

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

Post vacation let-down is a bitch. I yearn for the the languid days, the sense of discovery, and – of course – the food.

Paciarino's sign and Adam's photo of the stunning Amalfi Coast

When we lived in the mid-south I was mostly out of luck. Post vacation culinary cravings were never satisfied. Returns from Vietnam and Turkey were particularly harsh. There ain’t no street Pho in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, folks.

But Portland has proven a salve – easing my re-entry from a recent trip to France and Italy. Three places in particular have helped me over the hump: Paciarino, Gorgeous Gelato and Petite Jacqueline.

Just sitting at Paciarino’s bare, blonde wood tables makes me wistful. Shades of creamy gold and robin’s egg blue evoke a crisp Mediterranean morning. A rich, doughy odor wafts from the open kitchen as pasta ribbons curl into existence. Set in front of me, a hearty plate of Tagliatelle alla Bolognese steams with meaty, tomato goodness tinged with garlic, rosemary and cloves. Made from owner Fabiana de Savino’s trusted family recipe, the sauce is pure heaven atop a generous pile of thick, al dente strands.

Next to me, Adam’s “oh man-ing” over fat ravioli pillows stuffed with goat cheese and Vidalia onions caramelized with a touch of fresh sage. A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil glistens on his fork as he stabs chunks of the tender pockets slathered in traditional Pomodoro sauce speckled with fresh ground parmigiano.

A few days before I’d sampled the Ravioli di Pesce al Pomodoro – packed with local shrimp and haddock. Also stellar. (In fact, everything I’ve ever eaten at Paciarino rings with authentic flavor and fresh ingredients. Try the olivey Maccheroni Paesani or the Spaghetti aglio olio e Peperoncino if you spy these house specialties featured on the restaurant’s signature blackboard.)

We could sit here all afternoon sipping Falanghina (a lemony, crisp Campania white that won over two, seriously committed red addicts), remembering lazy days on the Amalfi Coast, but we have a self-imposed date a few doors up Fore Street.

I’ve written about Gorgeous Gelato before. It was blessing in January – and a Godsend now. It’s astounding how addicted Adam and I became to traditional Italian gelato in just a few weeks. The creamy and fierce dark chocolate is exactly like the glorious scoops I ate all over Venice and it harkens me back. Bitter sweet – both the taste and the memories.

Sigh.

Up next: Petite Jacqueline.

Killer Korean

Feb 20

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining | No Comments

Perhaps scarred from the long haul that was Thai-o-rama (and one too many underwhelming Korean hot pots over the years), my expectations for Little Seoul weren’t high when I first strolled in the door last November.

Little Seoul's sweet and creamy pumpkin soup.

More than half-dozen visits later, however, the Exchange Street restaurant has slowly wormed it’s way onto my “regular” list with solid offerings, fair prices and fast, friendly service.

The menu is varied – in my mind, a bit too varied – offering a host of Japanese staples as well as Korean fare. It’s when I stray too far toward The Land of the Rising Sun that Little Seoul veers off-course for me.

Durp-Bop and Kimchi? Awesome. Sushi and Teriyaki? Not so much.

That’s not to say these items are bad. I’d certainly score them “above-average” – with some inching toward “good.” (Adam’s fav – scallop sashimi – is a delicious standout, for example). But my tastebuds tell me it’s home country cuisine where this restaurant really shines.

Hence, my Six Favorite Little Seoul Dishes to Date:

Kimchi
Technically a “side” not a “dish,” I’d be remiss if I didn’t list the spectacular Kimchi. Served in sets of three, the little bowls of crunchy, fermented veg both spark the appetite and cleanse the palate. Tangy, vinegary cucumber slices edge out the snappy bean sprout and classic spicy cabbage in my stomach’s race to condiment delight. But, they’re all tartly wonderful. Occasionally a salty fish cake version joins its siblings during lunch – adding an air of the ocean.

Korean-Style Pumpkin Soup
At first slurp, I was shocked by its sweetness – remarking to Adam, “this belongs on the dessert menu.” But subsequent spoonfuls revealed a coarse and nutty creaminess reminiscent of roasted sunchoke. Thickened with rice flour, it’s more dense porridge than soup – both richer and more toothsome than in other culinary traditions.

Bi-Bim-Bop
Served in a hot stone tureen, the solid Bi-Bim-Bop is a filling favorite on a winter’s night. It’s crisped white rice, mushrooms, bean sprouts, shredded seaweed, sesame seed and loads of beef chunks topped with a fried egg. Sounds like fried rice, no? Well, yes. But, somehow it transcends the Americanized Chinese favorite with an determined Asian authenticity. Maybe it’s the sesame and the delicate seaweed strips? I also recommend ratcheting up the roar with sprinkles from the side serving of chili sauce.

Pork On Fire
Melt-in-your-mouth braised pork redefines the word “tender.” Fat practically oozes between your teeth (and I mean that in a good way). Billed as an appetizer, it also serves as a perfect power lunch in this “belly crazed” town. The “on fire” part is a misnomer, however. While the pig is audaciously flavorful and a side salad adds a slight punch, it’s far from the sinus slayer the name suggests.

Gop-Chang Bokum is a killer dish featuring beef tripas (or tripe).

Gop-Chang Bokum
What Pork On Fire lacks in heat, you’ll discover in this striking stir fry. It’s a miracle I ever ordered it, frankly. And, no, it wasn’t the beef intestine that turned me off – it was “GOP” in the name. The velvety tripas pops with a intense offal flavor even while slathered in sweat-inducing chili sauce. Crisp onions and earthy vegetables add “liver and onions” overtones – conjuring visions of Korean grandmas slaving over sizzling stovetops.

Seafood Udon
My “no Japanese” rule goes out the window for this steaming crock of love. I crave the kelp broth when feeling blue or simply worn down by a morning at my laptop. Chucks of salmon, scallops, Maine shrimp, fresh veggies and thick, meaty noodles float in this simply prepared stew, which practically screams “health!”

Next up on my list to try: Nak-Ji Bokum (stir fired octopus with vegetables) and Jeon-Ju Bi-Bim-Bop (broiled eel with ginger, shredded seaweed, sesame seed and housemade eel sauce — whatever that is!).

Tags: Korean food in Portland, Little Seoul Portland ME, Maine Korean food

First Date Valentine

Feb 7

Posted by dawn in Bar Scene, Fine Dining, Informal Dining, Outside Portland | 4 Comments

A first date for Valentine’s Day is a patently absurd notion. Why put even more pressure on an already over-hyped holiday fraught with sexual tension? But, as the chosen “group blogger” theme this month, I had to post something.

Sonny's - the scene of my Valentine "dream date" with younger man, James Franco.

So I decided to run with the truly absurd.

I lured Adam into my scheme, and over dinner and a great bottle of wine, we devised “The Perfect Portland Celebrity First Dates” for ourselves. And not just one celebrity date, mind you, but three dates each with three chosen celebrities – one younger, one older – and one of our own generation.

MY DATES

The younger man date
James Franco – to Novare Res Bier Cafe, then Sonny’s
With roles as diverse as Sean Penn’s lover in Milk, the partier in Pineapple Express, and the outdoor adventurer/survivalist in 127 Hours, sexy Franco can’t be pigeon-holed. And, as a PhD candidate, he attends poetry classes at Yale. What’s hotter than that? I’d get him a little tipsy with a few 10% beers at Novare, then spice up the evening with Sonny’s Latin-inspired entrees. We’d keep the night sizzling by sipping pepper-infused tequila at Sonny’s bar.

The man of my generation date
Colin Firth – to Miyake, then Fore Street
This high-brow Brit would want the best, so I’d start at Miyake. Small. Colorful. Fresh. Perfectly packaged. The decor at Food Factory Miyake is itself a metaphor for this tiny Japanese bistro’s delicate delights. Super-fresh and expertly prepared, the sushi offerings would surely impress the Oscar-nominated star, no? Then, off to stellar desserts and cocktails at Fore Street, where we’d sink back in a squishy bar couch and make goo-goo eyes over a slice of Chocolate Souffle Cake.

The older man date
Richard Russo – to Caiola’s
Let’s face it, with nary a hipster in sight and the best comfort food in town, Caiola’s is the kind of cozy neighborhood restaurant where your cheeks turn rosy from wine and animated conversation. What better spot to pick the brain of an older (but cleverly cute) Pulitzer Prize winning novelist? As a Mainer, Russo would appreciate Caiola’s hand-crafted wooden tables and commitment to local, farm-fresh food. We’d stay late sipping coffee and discussing the brilliance of Empire Falls, Nobody’s Fool, and (my favorite Russo) Straight Man.

Adam outside Nosh. Waiting for Brian the animated dog?

ADAM’S DATES

Adam had no trouble picking the younger and older women (lovely Keira Knightly and striking Julianne Moore, respectively), but struggled mightily with the “same generation” category. He finally chose – after completing the wine AND a couple Gin & Its – “that animated dog Brian from The Family Guy ‘cuz he seems like a great conversationalist.”

Okay. . .

To be fair, we’d discussed my dates first when fully sober, so his choices are a bit sketchy on the details (not to mention – one-third light on humans).

The younger woman date – “I’d take British beauty Keira to Grace, because she does all those period movies and I think the grandness of Grace would impress her.”

The older woman date – “I’d drive Julianne up the coast and woo the ageless redhead at Suzuki.” (Blogger’s note: we just saw The Kids Are Alright and I think the “red thong scene” has stayed with him.)

The same generation date – “Brian and I would grab brews and Pig Belly Apple Pie sandwiches at Nosh Kitchen Bar and discuss the events of the world.”

There you have it.

Blogger’s Note: This post is one of a group of “first-date Valentine” writings being posted today by Portland food bloggers. Visit Portland Food Map for information and links to other posts.

Portland’s Winter Culinary Wonders

Jan 28

Posted by dawn in Breakfast & Brunch, Informal Dining, Snacks & Street Food | 5 Comments

Coming from a decade in San Francisco and a few years in the mid-South (where three inches of snow meant TOTAL shut-down), I’m enthralled by living in hearty Maine.

Little Seoul's hearty and delicious Udon soup.

Bar banter abounds with tales of snow boarding and ice fishing. Portland Harbor Hotel’s ice bar sells out in mere hours. Winter is not just embraced – it’s celebrated.

I know, I know – we’re still in the honeymoon phase with months to go. Luckily, our fair city provides loads of culinary wonders to comfort us through the cold.

Below are some of my favorites. What are yours – and why?

The Seafood Udon Soup at Little Seoul. Out-of-this-world kelp broth steams my pores as I plunge the depths of a great big bowl for hearty chucks of salmon, scallops, Maine shrimp, fresh veggies and thick, meaty noodles. This newish Korean restaurant is doing MANY things right (I’ll publish a full review soon), but this stellar Udon deserves a separate spotlight.

Karmasouptra’s Borscht. Lunch-time lines snake through the Public Market this time of year, but the little soup purveyor’s frothy bowls are well worth it. I’m partial to the tangy, beety Borscht – crowned with a dollop of sour cream. Karmasouptra’s vegetarian version isn’t shy with the cabbage, which adds a bitter bite that’s right down my alley.

A Vietnamese Coffee at Bard. When the temp drops, I set aside my usual French press – and even my large latte – and go straight for the calorie-laden condensed milk and dark espresso of Bard’s Vietnamese. Creamy, sweet, rich and hot. ‘Nuff said.

Sitting Fireside at Flatbread. While I’m usually more of an Otto gal, I find myself drawn to Flatbread’s wood-fired ovens this time of year. Nothing beats sitting near the arched earthen doors watching flames crisp up a disc of milled wheat laden with homemade maple fennel sausage, sun-dried tomatoes, caramelized onions, mushrooms, cheese and herbs. Yum. (That’s right – I said yum).

Ginger Manhattan at Havana South. Ginger-infused whiskey brings a flush to my cheeks as warming waves envelope my body. Sweet vermouth adds a touch of lightness and enables a second round. Heartier souls than I might enjoy The Scorned Woman. Its chile-enflamed (“infused” is too tame a title) vodka will set your hair on fire.

Baked Beans and Brown Bread at the Front Room. Something about the thick and crusty dark bread and hot, hearty beans just seems, well – right – for wintertime brunch. Topped with an oozing, basted egg, the dish delivers solace when the winds howl off Casco Bay.

Tags: Bard Coffee, Flatbread, Front Room, Havana South, Karmasouptra, Little Seoul, Portland winter food

Portland Burgers Round 1: Diners and Sandwich Shops

Jan 17

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Snacks & Street Food | 5 Comments

Miss Portland Diner is one of those classic places that serves up exactly what you’d expect – nostalgia and comfort food.

Burger from Miss Portland Diner

In spades.

When I crave meatloaf and gravy, an Irish benedict, or a slice of pie, I mosey over to the historic Worcester Lunch Car on Marginal Way. I’ve always enjoyed my hearty, homemade meals at Miss Portland – to the point of developing a soft spot for the peculiar, open-faced haddock reuben (huge hunk of lightly breaded fish, classic thousand island dressing, a craven covering of melted cheese).

The food isn’t great. But it is good – and plentiful.

So, I felt I was on solid footing choosing Miss Portland as my “diner destination” in round one of a food blogger series on burgers (click here for details and links to other reviews).

Unfortunately, the burgers seem to be the least homemade thing on the Miss Portland menu. Here are my impressions:

The Meat:
Billed as sirloin, the meat patty was high quality if a tad overcooked for my medium-rare order. Forgoing cheese (in order to really taste the cow), I found there just wasn’t much to taste. Simply seasoned with salt and pepper, it offered nothing to either complain or rave about. I doubt it was hand-rolled in the kitchen with bread crumbs and spices.

The Fixins:
One fridge-flavored, color-sapped tomato and two leaves of romaine added nothing, so I soon pulled them off.

The Bun:
A standard burger bun, it was a step above most grocery store fare, but essentially boring white bread. Full of air and, again, kinda tasteless. When I ditched it and snagged one of my meatloaf munching companion’s fresh, warm dinner rolls – it was as if night had turned into day. A slightly larger version of the dinner roll would elevate this burger into “pretty good” territory.

The Sides:
Miss Portland’s 1/3 pound sirloin burgers cost $6.50 and come with a pickle and a choice of chips or cole slaw. An upgrade to French fries costs $.75. After a quick glance at the recently frozen crinkle-cut numbers a table over – I stuck with the chips.

The Bottom Line: Go to Miss Portland – get that haddock reuben, the chicken pie, a hot turkey dinner – or whatever is on special. If you need a hunk of beef, I can highly recommend the meatloaf. Just don’t bother with the burgers.

Tags: burgers in Maine, Miss Portland Diner, Portland casual food, Portland ME burgers

Cupcake Coterie

Nov 24

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Snacks & Street Food, Stores & Purveyors | 3 Comments

Cupcakes were neatly tucked into the “childhood” section of my memory – wedged between fingerpainting and falling off the monkey bars. I hadn’t eaten one – by choice at least – in 35 years.

Then Uke called. Cupcake throwdown. Her house.

Cupcakes await our taste testing.

Baffled by a national “gourmet cupcake” craze (as well as Portland’s own, growing mini-psychosis), I accepted her invitation out of curiosity and the desire to reacquaint myself with the tiny, seductive pastries.

Cupcakes are spreading into America’s urban areas – and waistlines – at an alarming rate. Google “cupcake craze” and you’ll see what I mean. Portland is no exception. From the “farm to table” cupcakes of Tulips Cupcakery to the vegan offerings of Cakeface – cupcakes have arrived in Maine.

Big time.

So. . . there we were last Saturday night. Kate (from The Blueberry Files) and I huddled with Uke in her kitchen. Cupcakes covered one entire counter.

Here’s what happened:

The Mission: Try 12 cupcakes from 7 local bakeries. In one hour. Can you say “sugar rush”?

Approach: We devoured cupcakes from both established and newly sprouted bakeries – from classically baked to vegan/gluten free.

Contestants: Scratch, Rosemont, Tulips Cupcakery, Cakeface, Katie Made Bakery, Two Fat Cats, and One Fifty Ate.

Method: To achieve parity, we grouped them into four taste categories: Vanilla, Chocolate, Spiced Fruit and Vegan/Gluten-Free

Vanilla Grouping – Tulips’ Madagasgar Vanilla Bean vs. Katie Made’s Vanilla.
This one wasn’t even close. Tulips’ cake was moist and pliant. Frosting rich and creamy with an intense vanilla wallop. Delightful. Katie Made’s was dry and borderline stale. Topped with a pasty, plastic frosting reminiscent of playdough, I had trouble choking it down. Don’t mean to be harsh, but it was bad. I have to think it wasn’t exactly fresh. At least I hope not. It did look pretty though – lots of sprinkles on top. And, my cohorts swore it tasted better with coffee. But, let’s be honest – what doesn’t?

Aftermath of the cupcake coterie.

Chocolate Grouping – Two Fat Cats’ Chocolate vs. Rosemont’s Guinness Chocolate vs. Scratch’s Black Forest Chocolate.
Two Fat Cats’ cupcake – chocolate with white icing – was the embodiment of that childhood memory. Super-sweet frosting – more sugar than fat. Cake full of air like a Ho Ho. Not bad. But, alas, not my style and (lightbulb!) probably the reason cupcakes haven’t crossed my lips in decades. Rosemont’s was the flip side. Not like a cupcake at all. Compressed. Heavy. Slightly bitter from the beer and dark chocolate bits. Frosting more a thick glaze. Good, but nothing to rave about.

Scratch’s on the other hand – OMG. Fluffy, rich, dense, moist. Melt-in-your-mouth buttercream frosting in perfect proportion to the cake. Fruit filling tasted of cherry – not sugar. A masterpiece.

Spiced Fruit Grouping – Tulips’ Pumpkin vs. Scratch’s Banana Cream Pie vs. One Fifty-Ate’s Apple Spice with Brown Sugar Cream Cheese Frosting.
Tulips’ pumpkin was – again – solid. Flavorful, not too sweet. An even grain to the cake – not too many “air holes.” Maybe a tad undercooked. Methinks the baker’s fresh, Maine ingredients – cage-free eggs, natural butters, local dairy, unbleached flour – showed through. Quite a treat.

One Fifty Ate’s spiced apple surprised me. Flat, with a mere schmear of frosting – I wasn’t expecting much. Instead, I got a lovely mouthful of apple bread with cream cheese. It just barely qualified as a cupcake, though. Too subtle. Too spongy.

Scratch’s (ahem) took the cake for the second time, however. Pure velvety banana essence. Light cream flavor in the frosting. Wonderful.

Vegan/Gluten-Free Grouping (all from Cakeface) – Mocha Chip Mocha vs. Spiced Chocolate. Hazelnut Maple vs. Hazelnut Mocha.
Okay, yes, we segregated these. It was a texture issue. Can you blame us? We also wanted to be fair. Made from ingredients such as white rice, quinoa, buckwheat, xanthan gum, soy milk, fake butter and ground flax (subbing for eggs) we were dealing with apples and oranges, people.

To my astonishment, I really liked two of these – Hazelnut Maple and Spiced Chocolate. The maple one was intense – the most fragrant cupcake of the night, by far. It’s aroma filled the room the moment Uke pulled it from the bag. Spiced chocolate offered shaved chocolate overtones and a wave of cinnamon with each bite. The two mocha ones just didn’t work for me, though. Somehow the cakes were too flaky, the frosting too sandy. Strange.

All-in-all, the evening succeeded in re-opening my eyes to the world of cupcakes. And reinforcing why Scratch simply kicks ass.

Blogger’s Note: I titled this post “coterie” ‘cuz I just adore one of its definitions (“a group of prairie dogs occupying a communal burrow”), which soooo describes how it felt in Uke’s warm kitchen shoveling cupcakes into my piehole.

Tags: Cakeface, Gourmet cupcakes, Maine cupcakes, Portland Maine Bakeries, Rosemont Market, Scratch Bakery, Tulips Cupcakery, Two Fat Cats

The End of Thai-o-rama

Nov 16

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining | 1 Comment

Almost a year. 13 restaurants. Lots of bad Pad Thai. Jumped the shark long ago. It’s finally over.

These muddled thoughts swam through my brain as I slogged out to outer Forest Avenue. My destination? The final stop in the Thai-o-rama campaign: Sengchai Thai.

Sengchai Thai's Panaeng Curry

Weighed down by 9 hours driving from 2 days of Irish pub debauchery in Nova Scotia, I expected to slump in my seat and force conversation with the rest of the blogging crew.

Instead, I found Portland’s (New England’s?) most enthusiastic waitress. She lifted my spirits and (warning – corny ahead!) made me appreciate the joy of living. Her somewhat forced litany of anecdotes and stories peppered the evening with a large dose of weird, slightly inappropriate and off-topic. I loved it. Jillian captured it nicely here.

The food? Better than some but certainly no Boda.

I ordered Tom Khar Gai and Panaeng Curry and found them both passable if unremarkable. Nice flavors but little to write home about. The soup was as thin as Lindsay Lohan’s excuses and the curry hardly registered as such. Medium spicy is tame here, folks.

Nibbles around the table told me that others ordered better. Uke’s Drunken Noodle offered the tangy punch that makes me appreciate cold beer (even watery Singha). Kate’s Larb Gai got all fresh and lemongrassy on my ass. A’s Pad Thai proved to be one of the better ones in town – complete with citrus! Jenner’s mind appeared to be underwhelmed by her Crab Rangoon – so I passed.

I left feeling cozy and satisfied, but I think that was mostly due to the company and the odd, bubbly service. The food was pretty good. Servicable Thai.

All and all – not a bad way to end.

Blogger’s Note: This post is the final (yay!) in a series of Thai restaurant reviews being conducted — and posted on the same day — by a group of Portland bloggers and writers. For other reviews, check out Portland Food Map.

Tags: Maine Thai food, Portland Maine Thai restaurant

A Guy and His Wok

Nov 2

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Snacks & Street Food | No Comments

When you descend into the bowels of an office building for a meal, expectations hardly soar. But what I found in the florescent glow of One City Center’s basement pleasantly lifted my spirits.

Wok Thai made to order at Siam Orchid

I popped off the escalator, strolled to the back corner and low and behold: no heat lamps. No scary buffet. Just a friendly guy and his wok.

Flipped over flames with crisp snap peas, my Fresh Ginger Chicken at Siam Orchid was (can you believe it?) fresh. Pleasantly spiced (at heat level 3) and plentiful, it was nicely cooked and easy goin’ down. Frankly – better than I expected and much better than your average mall fare.

The spring rolls on the other hand suffered from flavor-sapped fridge lettuce, cardboard carrots, soulless onions and not much else. Perky and peppery, an accompanying sweet and sour sauce shifted them from sad to palatable. With eight to an order, you can sure fill up on ‘em if need be. Not bad for $4.50, but not sure its a good idea. . .

A second trip confirmed the first. A Thai basil shrimp tossed with light oil in the wok – very tasty. A pre-made crab rangoon fried to a crisp and stuffed with gooey, crab-flavored paste – not so much.

If you’re downtown, in a rush and want a Thai fix – Siam Orchid fits the bill. Take your cash (no plastic allowed), and take my advice – skip the apps and order something hot from the wok.

Blogger’s Note: This post is the twelfth (just one more — I swear!) in a series of Thai restaurant reviews being conducted — and posted on the same day — by a group of Portland bloggers and writers. For other reviews, check out Portland Food Map.

Tags: One City Center food court, Portland Thai, Siam Orchid

Now that’s Amore!

Oct 27

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining, Informal Dining | 1 Comment

Long, hectic days with high maintenance clients (you know who you are) drain my spirit and cripple my cooking abilities. Even boiling pasta seems a chore.

Those evenings, I lift my weary eyes from my computer and whine to Adam, “Let’s go to Ribollita.”

Always crowded with happy patrons, I’m amazed by how little buzz Ribollita garners.

Folks who wax poetic about the far reaches of Middle Street would rather blather on about Duck Fat next door. And who can blame them, really. I’ve done so myself!

Yet another lousy iPhone photo. Ribollita's gnocchi in the foreground -- osso bucco in the background.

I usually opt for the Roasted Chicken Puttenesca. The snickering 10-year old in me adores that “puttenesca” translates to “whore’s spaghetti.” Pasta of ill repute? Gotta love it.

In Ribollita’s version, housemade pappardelle ribbons are anything but sticky – yet they stick to the ribs like a Sicilian classic should. Fall-off-the-bone chicken, loads of garlic, capers, and kalamatas dance together in the artisanal red sauce and create a party. Each time, I struggle to suppress the “abbondanza!” bubbling up in my vocal chords.

Monday night, however, I strayed from the norm and ordered two things I had yet to try – the steamed mussels and the pan-seared gnocchi. Adam choose the veal osso bucco.

Steamed Mussels
An admitted mussel nut like me can be hard to please. I want ideal consistency and a creative, aromatic broth. Ribollita’s were shaky on the first part, solid on the second. Too chewy, small and slightly gritty, the mussels themselves were underwhelming. I ate a few, then grabbed the crusty Italian bread and turned my full attention to the broth. Pistachio butter cranked up the richness in this delicious, thoroughly original brew. Chunks of pistachio, a smidge of garlic and a healthy dash of salt tamed the butter’s sweetness. It took a while to regain my senses and shun the loaf. Nothing worse than filling up on bread – even if it is dipped in heavenly bouillon!

Pan-Seared Gnocchi
Gnocchi usually isn’t my bag. Mushy potato balls? Never understood the appeal. But the “pan-seared” part has always tempted and I finally gave Ribollita’s gnocchi a whirl. Smart move. Searing transformed the goopy texture – sealing the orbs in a crisp jacket of lightly fried flavor. Tossed with salty prosciutto and crisp pea pods, and topped with parmesan, the result was a super-hearty pile of perfection.

Veal Osso Bucco
This Milanese stew encapsulates what’s grand about Ribollita – simple dishes, wonderfully cooked, lovingly made. Osso bucco requires more patience than flair. It’s an amalgamation of veal shanks, mirepoix (carrots, onions, celery), red wine, stock, herbs (rosemary, thyme, and bay leaf, perhaps?) and hours simmering in low heat. Adam dug into the massive mound and pronounced it “exactly right – robust, braised to tenderness and unpretentious.” (Yes, he really said that.) Surprising me, he also raved on and on about the accompanying polenta until I finally scooped up a spoonful. Creamy, yet dense, and spiced with herbs, it slurped up the veal “gravy” – spawning a splendid savory pudding.

Now that’s amore!

Tags: Italian in Portland ME, Portland Gnocchi, Portland Maine Italian restaurant, Ribollita

“A Little Too Greasy” Spoon

Oct 12

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining, Informal Dining | No Comments

I lunched at Blue Spoon yesterday for the first time in months. As in the past, I left frustrated. And reminded of why I just can’t put this place on my “go-to” list.

Blue Spoon's yummy beet salad with red onions and pine nuts.

I want to love Blue Spoon. Menu items are creative and fairly priced. Produce and meats seem local and fresh. Service is friendly and fast. And yet – more often than not – I’m perplexed and underwhelmed by the culinary execution.

This time, it was a preponderance of grease that dampened what held so much promise. An otherwise lovely arugula, pancetta and poached egg salad wilted under the weight of a fried flavor that left me slightly queasy. A friend’s inventive grilled cheese (white cheddar and apricot preserves) had tasty tones that fought mightily. But in the end, an oily film – like days-old griddle drippings – won out.

As a lover of all things pig, I’m no shrinking violent when it comes to fat. So. . .what the heck?

I am willing to accept that I order poorly at times, or that I tend to visit on “bad days.” But the consistent inconsistency simply drags me down. My hopes float with a tasty beet and goat cheese salad only to be dashed on the rocks by an overcooked bistro burger. A dry chicken sandwich eclipses the happy haze from a discerning Meze platter of dry pungent cheese, shaved prosciutto, and toasted nuts.

Yesterday, a hearty mushroom soup – peppery and thick with kale, baby bellas and diced carrots – had me believing until the salad came and the grease, um, hit the fan.

I’m truly at a loss. Reviews rave. Friends speak highly. The bistro’s atmosphere embraces with its cozy warmth and charming simplicity.

Sigh.

I did once have a delectable haddock chowder. Creamy and lush with fingerling chunks and dense fish, it pleased with every bite. The memory of it still stirs my synapses. It’s that one flash of true brilliance that keeps me hoping – and trying – for that elusive golden dining experience at Blue Spoon.

Tags: Blue Spoon, East End cafe, Potland maine restaurants

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