Archive for January, 2011

Portland’s Winter Culinary Wonders

Coming from a decade in San Francisco and a few years in the mid-South (where three inches of snow meant TOTAL shut-down), I’m enthralled by living in hearty Maine.

Little Seoul's hearty and delicious Udon soup.

Bar banter abounds with tales of snow boarding and ice fishing. Portland Harbor Hotel’s ice bar sells out in mere hours. Winter is not just embraced – it’s celebrated.

I know, I know – we’re still in the honeymoon phase with months to go. Luckily, our fair city provides loads of culinary wonders to comfort us through the cold.

Below are some of my favorites. What are yours – and why?

The Seafood Udon Soup at Little Seoul. Out-of-this-world kelp broth steams my pores as I plunge the depths of a great big bowl for hearty chucks of salmon, scallops, Maine shrimp, fresh veggies and thick, meaty noodles. This newish Korean restaurant is doing MANY things right (I’ll publish a full review soon), but this stellar Udon deserves a separate spotlight.

Karmasouptra’s Borscht. Lunch-time lines snake through the Public Market this time of year, but the little soup purveyor’s frothy bowls are well worth it. I’m partial to the tangy, beety Borscht – crowned with a dollop of sour cream. Karmasouptra’s vegetarian version isn’t shy with the cabbage, which adds a bitter bite that’s right down my alley.

A Vietnamese Coffee at Bard. When the temp drops, I set aside my usual French press – and even my large latte – and go straight for the calorie-laden condensed milk and dark espresso of Bard’s Vietnamese. Creamy, sweet, rich and hot. ‘Nuff said.

Sitting Fireside at Flatbread. While I’m usually more of an Otto gal, I find myself drawn to Flatbread’s wood-fired ovens this time of year. Nothing beats sitting near the arched earthen doors watching flames crisp up a disc of milled wheat laden with homemade maple fennel sausage, sun-dried tomatoes, caramelized onions, mushrooms, cheese and herbs. Yum. (That’s right – I said yum).

Ginger Manhattan at Havana South. Ginger-infused whiskey brings a flush to my cheeks as warming waves envelope my body. Sweet vermouth adds a touch of lightness and enables a second round. Heartier souls than I might enjoy The Scorned Woman. Its chile-enflamed (“infused” is too tame a title) vodka will set your hair on fire.

Baked Beans and Brown Bread at the Front Room. Something about the thick and crusty dark bread and hot, hearty beans just seems, well – right – for wintertime brunch. Topped with an oozing, basted egg, the dish delivers solace when the winds howl off Casco Bay.

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Portland Burgers Round 1: Diners and Sandwich Shops

Miss Portland Diner is one of those classic places that serves up exactly what you’d expect – nostalgia and comfort food.

Burger from Miss Portland Diner

In spades.

When I crave meatloaf and gravy, an Irish benedict, or a slice of pie, I mosey over to the historic Worcester Lunch Car on Marginal Way.   I’ve always enjoyed my hearty, homemade meals at Miss Portland – to the point of developing a soft spot for the peculiar, open-faced haddock reuben (huge hunk of lightly breaded fish, classic thousand island dressing, a craven covering of melted cheese).

The food isn’t great. But it is good – and plentiful.

So, I felt I was on solid footing choosing Miss Portland as my “diner destination” in round one of a food blogger series on burgers (click here for details and links to other reviews).

Unfortunately, the burgers seem to be the least homemade thing on the Miss Portland menu. Here are my impressions:

The Meat:
Billed as sirloin, the meat patty was high quality if a tad overcooked for my medium-rare order. Forgoing cheese (in order to really taste the cow), I found there just wasn’t much to taste. Simply seasoned with salt and pepper, it offered nothing to either complain or rave about. I doubt it was hand-rolled in the kitchen with bread crumbs and spices.

The Fixins:
One fridge-flavored, color-sapped tomato and two leaves of romaine added nothing, so I soon pulled them off.

The Bun:
A standard burger bun, it was a step above most grocery store fare, but essentially boring white bread. Full of air and, again, kinda tasteless.  When I ditched it and snagged one of my meatloaf munching companion’s fresh, warm dinner rolls – it was as if night had turned into day. A slightly larger version of the dinner roll would elevate this burger into “pretty good” territory.

The Sides:
Miss Portland’s 1/3 pound sirloin burgers cost $6.50 and come with a pickle and a choice of chips or cole slaw. An upgrade to French fries costs $.75. After a quick glance at the recently frozen crinkle-cut numbers a table over – I stuck with the chips.

The Bottom Line: Go to Miss Portland – get that haddock reuben, the chicken pie, a hot turkey dinner – or whatever is on special. If you need a hunk of beef, I can highly recommend the meatloaf. Just don’t bother with the burgers.

Miss Portland Diner on Urbanspoon

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