AppetitePortland

Celebrating the culinary wonders of Maine's foodie hub

Archive for September, 2009

Buy the Slice

Sep 27

Posted by dawn in Snacks & Street Food | 1 Comment

The claim on the laminated sign at Micucci’s pizza order window (“the only commercial dough in America still mixed completely by hand”) might be considered trash talking by some. But for those of us who sink our teeth into the soft (but not too chewy) dough and lick the sweet (by not cloyingly so) sauce off our lips on a regular basis, the high-falutin’ assertion just seems accurate.

Micucci's Front Entrance on India Street

Micucci's Front Entrance on India Street

Not to say the guys behind the counter don’t have attitude. A paper plate inked with a thick sharpie warns that patrons best not ask for a reheat of their slice (the pizza comes out when it comes out. If it has been sitting there for 20 minutes, well, that’s your problem), and a recent query by a fella about purchasing “just the dough to make pizza at home” was greeted with a scoff and an eye-roll.

But the attitude is well-earned.  Snag a slice right out of the oven and your eyes will roll, too – only in a good way. Bubbly hot cheese and flecks of herbs mingle with a sweetly spicy tomato sauce that conjures up visions of Sicilian grandmas stirring steaming pots. Lines for the pie get long (especially on the weekends), but once you’ve had a slice you’ll line up like a good soldier time and time again. Trust me.

Wednesday Stroll

Sep 23

Posted by dawn in Stores & Purveyors | 1 Comment

It was a beautiful day, so we should have known better. We should have averted our eyes and kept on strolling in the sunshine along Commercial Street. But walking by Le Roux Kitchen is just not something I am physically capable of doing. And anyway, we NEEDED a new pepper grinder.

EVOO & Balsamic Ready for Taste-Testing

EVOO & Balsamic Ready for Taste-Testing

Once in the door, we immediately veared to the right toward the shiny little silver barrels sitting shoulder-high in a gleaming, beckoning row. Filled with flavored olive oils and balsamic vinegars, these tasting barrels are a LeRoux must-do.  A turn of a spigot yields sweet, spicy and savory combinations that will blow your socks off. Hint: try a combo of the fig balsamic vinegar and the blood-orange olive oil.

At the end of one row sit two barrels in a place of honor: the white and black truffle oils. Intensely flavored and rich, these are not for the faint of heart. One whiff can send me over the edge – craving a plate of buttery mashed potatoes or risotto to absorb the thick nectar.

After a full half-hour of tasting we sauntered through the hardwood cutting board aisle, peered at the martini shakers, and stood mesmerized in front of the Kitchen Aid mixers and Le Crecet vessels for a full 20 minutes before finally making our way to the salt and pepper shelves.  We were immediately overwhelmed. Should we buy the brand recommended by Mario Batali or the expensive French mill? We liked the look of one blond wood mill, but it was labeled for salt. After a few minutes of bewilderment, Adam turned to me and queried, “Is there really a difference between a salt grinder and a pepper grinder anyway?”

Matt strolled over to help us out (or set us straight, depending on how you look at it). A culinary school graduate and former chef, Matt has truly found his calling as a LeRoux sales rep and general foodie advisor. “Look at it this way man, pepper is a seed and salt is a rock. You definitely need two different tools.” After that sage advice and a lengthy chat with Matt we finally made our choice and headed for the checkout counter. Outside the sun was setting and a chill filled the air.

Another sunny afternoon spent in the foodie cave.

Excursion to Cape Elizabeth

Sep 21

Posted by dawn in Breakfast & Brunch, Outside Portland | No Comments

The Good Table in Cape Elizabeth was bustling with energy this Sunday morning. At the table to our right, the hostess chattered out the specials like an “A” student reciting the preamble to the constitution. She crisply delivered the 10-item spiel without one hitch (or intake of breath — that I could detect).

Late Summer Brunch at The Good Table

Late Summer Brunch at The Good Table

During her dissertation I caught the word “marscapone” and knew instantly what I was having. I’m a sucker for the Italian triple-cream cheese. Scrambled with fresh farm eggs, pancetta and spinach – it was marvelous. The accompanying polenta featured a prevalent – but not overpowering – lemon zest. A too-ripe slice of watermelon seemed a bit of an afterthought.

Adam’s Lobster Benedict kept him quiet, which is always a good sign. His one quibble – not enough hollandaise. He never thinks his “benis” have enough hollandaise. Come to think of it, he’s probably right — is there EVER enough hollandaise? His side of breakfast potatoes featured sweets as well as classic spuds, and plenty of herbs. Simple and delicious.

Halfway through our meal, the table on the other side received a steaming hot cinnamon roll the size of my head. The smell alone made me lean to my left and peer closely – probably a bit rudely – at the fresh pastry. It seemed a bit light on the icing, so I queried my neighbors for a review.  “Excellent, excellent, lots of fresh cinnamon flavor,” was the response. Did they feel it lacked in the icing department? Not at all. In fact, they expressed relief that it wasn’t drenched in the stuff like so many lesser rolls.

I know what I’m trying on my next Cape Elizabeth excursion.

First Visit to Miyake

Sep 16

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining | No Comments

Small. Colorful. Fresh. Perfectly packaged. The decor at Food Factory Miyake is itself a metaphor for this tiny Japanese bistro’s delicate delights. Super-fresh and expertly prepared by owner, Masa Miyake, the offerings go way beyond standard sushi bar fare.

Ayu Shioyaki -- Tiny but Tasty

Ayu Shioyaki -- Tiny but Tasty

Known for creative specials and, as described by Julia Moskin in a recent Grey Lady article, “Japan-Maine hybrids like quahog sushi . . .and lobster sashimi, the sweet tail meat barely blanched, then glossed with olive oil and microscopic pieces of fresh garlic,” Miyake’s menu promises so much – it’s hard to narrow down and order. Adam can never resist when he sees “chef’s choice” on a menu, so we trusted Masa-san to do us right for an opening round of nigiri.

Nigiri sushi is made with fresh raw fish pressed onto a hand-formed clump of white rice. Sushi rice must be pliant and slightly sweet, but not too soft. Mushy rice kills many a well-intentioned nigiri dish. The Ahi, Hamachi, Sweet Shrimp, Snapper – all were lovely – but the standouts were the Salmon Toro (the belly of the fish) and Fluke (a flat, flounder-like fish). Both melted on the tongue the way fatty raw fish should. And the rice? Cooked with an exacting hand.

Not fully sated, we scanned the specials menu and an item caught my eye. How could we not order something described as “a Japanese sweet fish that lives only in the very clean mountain streams.” The Ayu Shioyaki came whole with his little mouth propped wide as if emitting a vicious hiss. The impact might have been greater if he wasn’t just 6 inches long – not to mention salted and grilled. His insides were sweet, meaty and yummy, especially dipped in the accompanying crisp and tangy herbal sauce.

Miyake truly rivals the super-star sushi joints of NYC and San Francisco. As such, the prices reflect the quality, and Miyake sits firmly on our “splurge” list. Sigh.

Miyake on Urbanspoon

Hash at Hot Suppa!

Sep 13

Posted by dawn in Breakfast & Brunch | No Comments

Inappropriately named and ever-crowded, Hot Suppa (serving breakfast and lunch only) is a lesson in patience for the weekend bruncher. A table wait can creep up to half and hour on a good day. But, this tiny West End joint offers up the best corned beef hash this side of Dublin, so I sit. And wait.

“Scratch” made and hearty, the flavorful meat mingles with the requisite carrots, onions and potatoes.  But to break it down to it’s elements wouldn’t do this hash justice. The first time I tried it I was several heavenly bites into it before the secret ingredient dawned on me – thyme!  Lots of it.

Tender, pungent and plentiful, this hash is eye-rollingly good.

Welcome to Appetite Portland

Sep 8

Posted by dawn in Uncategorized | No Comments

Portland Maine, home to 65,000 souls, is small by city standards. Unassuming and in lacking traffic jams — its name usurped by a upstart municipality in the Pacific Northwest — Portland often is dismissed or ignored by the nation’s other urban centers.

Over the last 10 years, however, this little northeastern haven by the sea has quietly and persistently become a giant in food circles. Now, in the October 2009 issue of Bon Appetit, Portland’s cover has officially been blown. The venerable publication named Portland “America’s Foodiest Small Town.”

Inspired by this new moniker, I have decided to document the delights of this city’s restaurants and food stores (not that that is an altogether original idea — check out the other Portland Food Blogs in my blogroll.) I might even mention other wonderful Maine locales along the way. Come along with me as I take you on a journey through this culinary “big city in a small skin.”