AppetitePortland

Celebrating the culinary wonders of Maine's foodie hub

Gotta Go for Heat

Jun 15

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining | No Comments

Rather bland and colorless at heat level 1, but quite tasty and addictive at heat level 2, the Pad Thai at Veranda Thai Cuisine was a microcosm of our recent dining experience there.

My tasty and colorful Chicken Pad Thai

That is to say — wildly inconsistent.

Friendly and cozy, with great smells wafting from the kitchen, the little “outer Washington” restaurant seemed like a promising spot for a food blogger gathering. Plates delivered to neighboring tables revealed large, steaming portions.

For Adam and I, the meal began with a shared bowl of Chicken Tom Kha Gai. Lacking the requisite coconut milk, it featured fresh mushrooms and onions, but had very little flavor. Where’s the ginger, I pondered?

Not a good start.

Appetizers ordered by our dinner companions, however, looked fabulous. A. from Portland Food Map took pity on me and I speared a sample of his Thai dumplings. Plump and meaty with spiced pork and a sauce of bright acidity and ginger (ah, there was the ginger) — they were rich and perfectly cooked. Definite winners.

Adam’s Basil Duck, on the other hand, arrived limp and brown — a pile of boneless duck, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, bell peppers and onion in what the menu described as “hot basil sauce.”

Not so much.

It had very little heat, the duck was tough, the vegetables weren’t crisp and, as he put it, “it tastes like something that came out of a can.” Yikes!

But, across the table, Kate from The Blueberry Files munched happily away at her Larb Gai. She described it as fresh and citrusy “with a kick. ” I snaked my hand over for a fork full and concurred. Extremely yummy.

Turns out — she ordered it at “heat level 2.”

My Chicken Pad Thai — also ordered at heat level 2 — was decidedly peanutty with a spicy snap. Red in color from the spices and shiny with oil, the noodles slurped up beautifully. The Tofu Pad Thai — ordered by Margo from the Portland Daily Sun — was white and dry. It looked like a dish from a different restaurant. She had ordered it at heat level 1.

Lightbulb. You’ve gotta go for the heat.

Blogger’s Note: This post is the eighth in a series of Thai restaurant reviews being conducted — and posted on the same day — by a group of Portland bloggers and writers. For other reviews, check out Portland Food Map.

Veranda Thai on Urbanspoon

“very Thai” at Boda

May 4

Posted by dawn in Bar Scene, Fine Dining, Snacks & Street Food | 2 Comments

It’s unfair, really.

Putting Boda in the same category as the rest of Portland’s Thai restaurants is like equating grandma’s from-scratch Sicilian with greasy-good college town pizza. It’s a matter of ethnic authenticity.

Boda's exquisite bitter melon soup

The Thai food at Boda is simply – well – unAmerican.

And in this case (unlike Arizona’s hideous new immigration law) – it’s a good thing.

Boda’s menu doesn’t cater to the sweet-craving American palate the way 95% of Thai restaurant menus do. I challenge you to find another Thai restaurant in Portland (or in Maine for that matter) that serves bitter melon soup stuffed with minced pork.

Oily and aromatic with sesame overtones in a savory broth, the soup provoked my tastebuds like little I’ve tried before or since. It awoke areas of my tongue I didn’t know existed! A remarkable balance of flavors, it played the role of appetizer to a “T” – kicking my hunger into overdrive.

And it killed with a crisp martini.

We started the meal with the soup and an obligatory grilled skewer (the house specialty). The list ranged from pork belly, to king oyster, to asparagus wrapped in bacon. Not much of a skewer fan (I just don’t see the point, really), I found the shiitake version a tad underwhelming. The teriyaki seasoning tasted predominantly of soy and the nicely roasted mushrooms just seemed lonely on that skinny stick. The accompanying pickled onions were tasty, but did little to perk up the dish for me.

I turned back to the soup with its acerbic bouillon and spoonfuls of bean thread noodles and was happy as a clam until the entrees arrived.

My tilapia with herbs in a banana leaf conjured memories of mountainous rice terraces and thick jungles. Earthy, like a cauliflower, the fish was dense in a way that tilapia rarely is – buoyed by a bed of cabbage, shallots and hearty mushrooms. Cooked in a bevy of spices (chili, Thai basil, lime leaves, lemongrass, lemon basil, garlic) — it was heaven for the senses.  Aromatic steam released the moment I pierced the leaf and it wafted through the rest of the meal. I alternated bites of meaty fish with balls of sticky rice dipped into a puddle of spicy lemon basil broth. Sheer perfection.

Tilapia with herbs in banana leaf

While not at the level of my fish, Adam’s Thai chicken wings were fun to eat (gotta love messy finger food) — piping hot and doused with chile. Each bite into the spicy carmelized skin revealed hints of vinegar and fish oil in equal amounts. An accompanying pile of uninspired daikon and carrots lacked a strong pickled flavor, however, and did little to cool the wings’ heat.

Full at this point, I began to rethink my anti-skewer stance and wish we’d leaned more toward the lighter dishes and tapas. Fried taro sticks, Thai Northern-style sausage and Kanom-krok quail eggs all sounded just brilliant. Ah well, next time.

Boda’s atmosphere blended mod and rustic. Rough pine tables and floors mixed with cement walls and platinum and glass drop lights. Service was earnest and knowledgable. Our server was dead right with each insight and suggestion.

My one quibble with the environment is the large television hanging over the bar in the back dining room. Tuned to a reality show and set a bit too loud, IT was very American indeed.

Blogger’s Note: This post is the sixth in a series of Thai restaurant reviews being conducted — and posted on the same day — by a group of Portland bloggers and writers. For other reviews, check out Portland Food Map.

Boda on Urbanspoon

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Simply too simple

Apr 19

Posted by dawn in Dining Events, Stores & Purveyors | 2 Comments

Despite the much-deserved win of fellow food blogger Joe at Portland Food Coma (whose wry writing about outlandish culinary adventures I greatly admire), I’ve been left scratching my head at many of this year’s Food & Drink winners of the Phoenix’s “best of.”

Very few of my picks prevailed.

But that’s not the problem, really. The problem is the too basic, outdated structure of the list itself. While some categories are widely obvious (Novare Res for “best bar and beer selection” – duh), most are just too damn broad.

I’ve argued before that sub-categories are needed (see my “best pizza” argument here) and Coffee By Design’s win for “best coffee shop” seals that deal for me. While their beans are good and I’ve been known to grab a latte on the go – ya’ll really think CBD deserves to beat Bard for coffee shop?

REALLY?

I’d pick CBD for “best coffee chain” or “best bean selection,” but for pure coffee shop atmosphere and barista skills? Bard – hands down.

I’m gonna hear it now from you Arabica people – and that’s kinda my point. . .

The list is simply too simple for the culinary nuances of Portland and the voracious opinions of its dining population.

And that is a shame.

Forest City Po’ Boy

Apr 13

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining, Snacks & Street Food | 3 Comments

Armed with the insight of my Louisiana-reared gal pal, I marched into Po’ Boys and Pickles prepared to be underwhelmed.

Po' Boys & Pickles' Sign stands out on Forest Ave.

She just couldn’t believe Maine could produce an authentic version of the Crescent City’s beloved sandwich and neither could I, really. (Raves from my colleagues here, here and here not-withstanding).

Although I’ve snacked on my share of this New Orleans’ staple post raucous nights of zydeco dancing and Hurricanes, I felt ill-equipped to make a qualitative verdict without some native perspective.

After a phone call tutorial (more like a “dictatorial”), I had my list of the “Three Key Elements on Which to Judge a Po’ Boy”) and I was ready to get down to business.

First, the list:

1. Fresh French bread. Foremost and vital. According to my friend, the bread must have a thin, crisp, parchment-like crust and a fluffy light center. “Its gotta be firm enough to withstand the moisture when doused with sauce, but not so heavy that a doughy bread flavor dominates the fillings,” she said. Although not an extreme purist (someone who insists on New Orleans-baked bread – preferably from the Leidenheimer or Gendusa bakeries), she warned me not to be lenient with “any ole’ hoagie roll.”

2. Stuffed to the gills with the main ingredient. Whether fish, fried oysters, fried shrimp, sausage or roast beef, the sandwich must not be greasy and must not be skimpy, she emphasized.  ‘If you ain’t pushing it back in, you ain’t eating a po’ boy.”

3. Dripping in sauce. Whether plain mayonnaise (or MAY-NEZ, as she pronounces it) or gravy on the meat versions, or homemade tarter or remoulade in the fish versions, the po’ boy – if it’s dressed – “must be dripping, tangy and have a bit of heat.” A “dressed” po’ boy simply means it has sauce, lettuce and tomatoes. Apparently, “un-dressed” po’ boys do exist.

So, how did Po’ Boys and Pickles stack up?

Very, very, very well. But, alas, not perfectly.

The Bread:
While fresh, crusty and close to the vital po’ boy style, the bread didn’t quite hit the mark. Perhaps my friend’s hoagie warning rang a bit too loudly in my ears, but the self-contained roll (instead of a “sliced off the loaf” roll) seemed sorta “sub” like.

My blackened fish po' boy was tasty if not perfect

The Fixin’s:
My blackened fish and Adam’s Debris (roast beef) both were stellar. Flaky fresh with a slight heat, the fish was well-prepared and plentiful. Slow roasted and nicely spiced, the beef was piled high and very tender.

The Sauce:
My fish dripped with a super-tasty roasted pepper mayo instead of the expected tartar sauce and – frankly – was all the better for it. A river of it flowed down my arms as I ate. Adam felt the horseradish mayo was a tad tame for the spiced beef, but I liked it fine. It didn’t ooze out in the same voracious quantity, however.

Other Eats:
A shared Golden Fried Oyster Salad gave us the chance to sample the fried seafood. While the cornmeal crust was tasty, Adam and I both felt the oysters (and the salad in general) was way too dry. Perhaps the mayo in the oyster po’ boy would overcome this weakness. The mesclun mix, green beans, shallots and blue cheese dressing failed to moisten up the breaded shellfish even a little bit.

A toffee bread pudding was – in a word – killer. Too stuffed to eat in the restaurant, we carted it home and fought over the too-small portion. I’ll definitely go back to try the fried shrimp po’ boy, the gumbo and my very own order of pudding.

A call to my friend with my assessment yielded a stunned pause, and, finally, “A good po’ boy in Maine. Well, that’s almost enough to make my grandpa roll over in his grave.”

Seems Po’ Boys and Pickles will be quite the story down in Baton Rouge.

Po' Boys & Pickles on Urbanspoon

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Master of Sauces

Apr 5

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining | No Comments

We went on a cold, rainy evening – the kind of Maine spring night when damp penetrates to the bone. As Adam ordered a California Syrah, I scanned my pink menu and gazed out the big picture window. Fat raindrops splashed the wet-glossed streets. I relished even the artificial warmth of rose-tinged brown walls and flickering tea lights.

Bresca's marvelous veal tongue with marinated mushrooms and shaved foie gras.

Cupping my wine glass, I leaned back onto the puffy, fringed pillows lining the banquette and watched the waitresses flit across the small space like the bees in the logo stitched on their aprons. Glasses clinked. Crimson tulips arched from a large, crystal vase on the antique sideboard. The aired filled with the strains of a single violin and the soft murmur of romance.

Unique in Portland, tiny Bresca succeeds in creating a distinctly feminine – and thoroughly delightful – environment without slipping onto the wrong side of “precious.”

And the food is – in a word – lovely.

While we awaited our order, I eavesdropped on the couple next to us. The woman raved about her sea urchin linguini. A wave of lemon zest, basil and mint wafted my way. I leaned over slightly to take a whiff. It smelled heavenly. She popped a piece of uni into her mouth and pronounced the dish “wonderful.”

They were celebrating her birthday and her boyfriend had wisely chosen Bresca not only for chef Krista Kern Desjarlais’ fast-growing reputation, but also for its charm appeal. They both seemed pleased.

My impressions corroborated, I turned my attention to the arrival of my appetizer – a pile of shaved brussels sprouts. Earthy and crunchy, with toasted walnuts and a blend of parmesan and pecorino, I found the sprouts tasty and rich in a roasty, slightly sweet way – like a homemade peanut butter. While not groundbreaking, it was a very good starter.

Across the table, Adam was humming a happy little tune as he slurped up slices of pickled veal tongue doused with dollops of chive oil and cabernet/port reduction. Velvety and delicate in consistency – much like carpaccio – the tongue was both piquant and marvelously complex in flavor. Marinated mushrooms and shaved foie gras added to its sheer lushness. A truly stellar dish.

I chose veal for my main course, as well, and while the meaty chop came slightly overcooked, the fragrant jus made up for it. Thick and brown, the sauce hit my tastebuds with a punch of onion and spice. Heavy at first, it quickly melted away to a gentle film of flavor that I can only describe as “the essence of meat.”

It was at this point in the meal that I realized chef Kern Desjarlais’ true brilliance. She’s a master of sauces. No wonder she was nominated for a James Beard award for Best Chef: Northeast. Even the simple stew on Adam’s otherwise unremarkable market fish (Atlantic char) took artisanal Italian to another level. Charred cherry tomatos and olives never tasted so good. It elevated the fish from “fine” to “fabulous.”

Finally, it was time for dessert and – with trepidation – I ordered the much-lauded buttermilk panna cotta. Adam opted for a bittersweet chocolate soup.

Reviewers far and wide wax poetic about Bresca’s panna cotta, so I steeled myself for a let down. How could it possibly live up to the hype, I reasoned?  Made with buttermilk, cream, and vanilla, and served in a passionfruit broth with white pepper orange flower sorbet, it’s just about the best  dessert I’ve ever eaten. It defies words. You just have to try it yourself.

Bresca on Urbanspoon

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Duck Soup Dilemma

Mar 30

Posted by dawn in Informal Dining | No Comments

For me, Pom’s Thai Taste on Congress street has long been a one-dish destination. I flip to the full-page “build your own soup” section of the menu, smile up at the waitress and point: Medium noodles. Five spice broth. Crispy duck. Prepared medium spicy.

Pom's noodle soup with crispy duck and five spice broth.

It’s what I get every time.

Now, it’s not the best soup in the world, but it’s dependable, hearty, filling and affordable. At $8.95 (lunch size) and $12.95 (a formidable dinner size), it’s a deal. And, with a heat level that turns your cheeks rosy and sinuses clear — it’s a flavorful way to warm up in winter and sober up on First Friday’s.

So, branching out of my rut for this review was a bit tough. Sometimes I just like what I like. But, I set my resolve and waltzed in for lunch on a recent Friday.

Feeling slightly pressured by the regimented efficiency of Pom’s wait staff, I scanned the expansive menu for a suitable duck soup replacement. Still searching through town for great Pad Thai, I choose the restaurant’s Maine shrimp version. For an appetizer, I couldn’t resist the intriguingly titled Steamed Butterflies.

Billed as the Pom’s house specialty, the butterflies were mostly just a sticky and overly sweet mess. Essentially dumplings stuffed with ground chicken breast, ground peanuts, herbs and turnips, they tasted — strangely — as if they had been dipped in a vat of maple syrup. It was hard to get past the pasty texture of the dumpling shell and the cloying flavor of its contents. Even a dunk in the accompanying soy sauce didn’t mute the sweetness much.

The Pad Thai arrived looking promising. I enjoyed the first few bites. It was fresh. Noodles perfectly cooked. Shrimp the requisite blend of buttery and meaty. Crisp bean sprouts added snap. But, quickly, a sweetness (with undertones of fish sauce and overtones of peanut) took control. I scanned my plate for the lime.

No lime! What’s wrong with the Thai restaurants in this town!

Instead of suffering in silence I flagged down a waitress and begged for citrus. It came promptly. One squeeze and the flavor profile balanced out and I was able to contentedly finish the rest of my meal. Once tamed, the Pad Thai was quite tasty.

Through all this drama, across the table, Adam was happily slurping his duck noodle soup.

Lucky bastard.

Blogger’s Note: This post is the fourth in a series of Thai restaurant reviews being conducted — and posted on the same day — by a group of Portland bloggers and writers. For other reviews, check out Portland Food Map.

Poms Thai Restaurant on Urbanspoon

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C’est Magnifique

Mar 24

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining, Outside Portland | 1 Comment

We visited food heaven in Montreal last week. Evelyn and David – our uber-foodie friends from Vermont – planned each decadent instant. Adam and I went along for the ride.

Our uber-foodie friend Evelyn digs into her pig belly at Restaurant DNA in Montreal

And, oh, what a ride.

Trying to write – in flowing, descriptive prose – about the delights of this most culinary of North American cities has escaped my mind, pen and keyboard. I just can’t do the experience justice. Can’t.

So I offer this list of moments instead:

  1. Au Pied Du Cochon’s guinea hen liver mousse with sweet aspic and pickled pearl onions nearly brought me to my knees.
  2. The melt-on-your-tongue duck carpaccio did bring Adam and Evelyn to theirs. (Topped with simple shaved cheddar, an over-easy egg, button mushrooms, olive oil and salt and pepper – it shouldn’t have been as good as it was.) I think Evelyn called the velvety dish  “Freakin’ awesome” – repeatedly and loudly.
  3. Watching the line chefs spin, swerve, and bend was like viewing a chaotic, clattering, French-speaking ballet. Hint: Sit on stools 3 and 4 down from the door (out of 6 total) at the Food Bar – no pepper mills and olive oil bottles block the action in these prime seats.
  4. I felt my arteries harden from gazing – zombie-like – at plate after plate of poutine. Cheese curd, topped with fries cooked in duck fat, topped with gravy, finished with a melting pile of foie gras. Yowza! We opted for the foie gras terrine instead. Marvelous.
  5. At the chic brassiere, Holder, Adam ordered the BEST EVER beef tartare. Better even than a much-beloved version devoured in Paris a few years ago. Onion forward. Fatty, succulent meat. Touches of red pepper. It had me at first bite.
  6. Holder also yielded the most impressive restaurant “triage” I’ve ever witnessed. The waitress spilled Evelyn’s espresso on delivery. Five waiters converged, stripped the plates and butcher paper, flung on a new tablecloth and plopped down a fresh espresso. Within seconds. We hardly had time to blink.
  7. At funky Restaurant DNA near the river, my red onion soup with chicken liver dumplings filled me with joy. I mean it. I sat in a warm huddle of happiness – letting the fragrant steam fill my nostrils. Paired with La Barberie Rouse, a Quebec-brewed bitter red ale, it made for a sensory, savory lunch.
  8. Each morning we sipped flavorful espresso and munched fresh fruit and flaky, crackly – and not too sweet – chocolate croissants at our hotel – Le Petit Hotel on Rue Saint-Paul in Old Montreal. At $148 a night, this hip boutique hotel is a steal. Best beds and continental breakfast ever!

Now, not everything was wine and roses. Holder’s insane wine list mark-up drove us to cheap-ish Prosecco. The sauce on my gnocchi at DNA sadly resembled Chef Boyardee, and Adam’s chocolate pot de crème would cream Au Pied Du Cochon’s.

But, the things that were wonderful were out of this world wonderful.

Montreal is just a hair over 5 hours from Portland.

If you love food. Go.

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Pros and Cons of Kon

Mar 16

Posted by dawn in Bar Scene, Informal Dining | 1 Comment

Kitsch, swank and a tasty cocktail can go a loooong way with me when I’m in a party mood. And swank reigns supreme at Kon Asian Bistro.

Kon's groovy Buddha and mod lights.

The Asian fusion restaurant (located way the heck out on Brighton Street) earned immediate points for:

  1. A large, uplit Buddha statue – his groovy girth shimmering in a reflecting pool,
  2. Mod lights and floaty ceiling swags, and
  3. A seriously strong – totally-not-girly-although-it-sounds-like-it — pomtini (pomegranate vodka with a dash of cranberry juice.)

The food wasn’t half bad either. The non-Thai food, that is.

A group of Thai-o-rama reviewers gathered at Kon a few weeks back to check another one off the list and celebrate the b-days of two of our ilk: Joe of Portland Food Coma, and Seth, Jenner’s intrepid dinner date.

And, the great thing about a crowd? Sharing.

Joe and Jenner were Kon veterans, and their recommendations – all Chinese items – were the pros of the night.

The Thai food – a snapper chosen by A. of Portland Food Map and, unfortunately, my Pad Thai (sigh) — were the cons.

Adam’s Udon soup fell somewhere in the middle, and I honestly can’t recall what Kate of The Blueberry Files – who ordered late — had (damn you, pomtini!)

The Pros:

Mini Peking Duck Appetizer: I picked this deconstructed dim sum on Jenner’s strong recommendation. I wasn’t disappointed. Tasty shredded duck strands. Puffy little “min bun” pancakes. Julienned cucumber and scallions. Five spice rub. A Peking dipping sauce of salty soy and hoisin. Very Chinese and very flavorful.

Yummy rock shrimp appetizer at Kon Asian Bistro.

Rock Shrimp Appetizer: A pile of crispy little tempura shrimp poppers topped with a sweet, tangy sauce. Joe’s rock shrimp appetizer made me drool. The whole table loved it. He had to order a second round as a result. Served in a half-orange peel. Alight with sesame and fennel flavors. Drizzled with a creamy sauce akin to a light, orangey mayonnaise. Serious yum.

Crispy Szechuan Beef: Fried shredded beef. Sweet brown sauce. Celery and carrots. Very tasty, but kinda cloying after a few bites. I loved sampling, but probably wouldn’t want it for the entire meal.

The Cons:

Pad Thai: Not the worst I’ve ever had, but certainly not the best. The noodles were a tad clumpy and the chicken – while nice and tender — was scarce. Too mild (Kon doesn’t offer heat options), it was mainly just humdrum. And, although it came with the requisite lime, it was dry and curled on the edges.

Thai Red Snapper: Deep fried and prepared with onions, snow peas, peppers, basil and Thai sweet chili sauce, it sounded promising. Unfortunately, it tasted muddy (more like catfish than snapper) and had an unappealing spongy texture. Not spicy. Not aromatic. The only positive thing I can say — there was a lot of it.

The Service: Earnest and friendly, but a bit slow.

The Bottom Line: Kon really is more Asian Fusion than Thai, and its Thai offerings seem to be its weakest link. While I’m not a big fan of hibachi, if that’s your bag, the folks in the secluded hibachi area were having a grand, raucous time. For me, the Chinese dishes were stellar – and well worth repeat visits.

Blogger’s Note: This post is the third in a series of Thai restaurant reviews being conducted — and posted on the same day — by a group of Portland bloggers and writers. For other reviews, check out Portland Food Map.

Kon asian bistro on Urbanspoon

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The Beloved Bistro

Mar 12

Posted by dawn in Fine Dining, Informal Dining, Outside Portland | No Comments

Entering a beloved neighborhood bistro is a welcoming embrace for the senses.

Pepper-crusted ahi at David's 388 in South Portland

Oil sizzles in a pan. A pungent haze smells of garlic and butter. Furtive glances flicker from tightly clustered diners. A hostess beams in greeting.

Crossing the threshold into David’s 388 in South Portland last night was — exactly — that.

Upscale, yet relaxed, the restaurant features painted tin ceilings, speckled drop lights and flickering candles on a smattering of two-tops. At the rear, a raised marble Chef’s Counter and four leather stools overlook a compact kitchen.

Ushered through the small, packed space we settled in at the counter. More of an eater than a cook, these “sneak a peek” food bars are just my speed. I felt immediately at home. Tensions of the day eased as I sipped a glass of Pinot Noir.

Order in, I shifted my attention to the action and watched Chef de Cuisine, Bo Byrne, shake and shuffle skillets of all sizes – steam billowing with scent. His assistant chef, Katie, molded little green balls of wasabi to pair with the night’s most popular dish – pepper crusted sushi rare tuna.

Adam opted for this ahi along with crispy duck potstickers as an appetizer. I choose a caprese salad and mushroom dusted haddock.

The Ahi: Served with a Szechwan citrus dipping sauce, the Ahi itself was pink and fresh with a plump sashimi texture. Pepper dominated, but did not overwhelm. Heat (red chile, maybe?) and sesame perfectly flavored the accompanying asparagus. A pile of soba noodles was the downer of the dish. Fixed too far ahead of serving, the noodles were squishy and listless — and lay there uneaten.

The exceptional mushroom-dusted haddock.

Crispy Potstickers: In a word – tasty. Very, very tasty. Hoisin-forward in flavor, the crunchy little pockets crackled when bitten and burst with sweetness and tang. Filled with tender duck, cabbage and carrots, they sat atop arugula riddled with tiny apricot chunks. Killer combination. Our only issue – a tad too oily.

Caprese Salad: While pleasantly — and simply — flavored with balsamic and salt, the salad was the night’s disappointment. Tomatoes were kinda mealy and the mozzarella uninspired. Scants sprigs of basil did little to help. Not totally bad, mind you, just boring.

Mushroom Dusted Haddock: The night’s BIG standout. Moist, meaty haddock encased in an earthy mushroom essence draped over a bed of savory risotto. Spinach, first steamed in vegetable stock, then braised to perfection by the artistic pour of a sizzling ragout, added a bright, fresh zip.

And – OMG — the ragout: a delicious blend of white button, shitake and oyster mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, leeks and white wine — finished with healthy splash of delicate clam broth and butter at the very end. Awesome.

The Service: Excellent, friendly, prompt and laid-back. Truly perfect. Our waitress, Jane (I asked, she didn’t offer – points in her favor), served with a wonderful mixture of warmth and efficiency. Bo and Katie juggled questions from me with poise and professionalism. All three made a point to thank us for coming.

Our Opinion: Mostly lovely food and a remarkably enjoyable dining environment.  We will certainly visit this welcoming neighborhood bistro again.

David's 388 Restaurant on Urbanspoon

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Pine State Palate Passions

Mar 6

Posted by dawn in Bar Scene, Breakfast & Brunch, Informal Dining, Outside Portland | 1 Comment

In honor of Maine Restaurant Week, I offer a partial list of my Pine State edible obsessions (hat tip to my friend’s so-named blog). In my view, these are some of the “best ofs” in Portland and a little beyond:

New-fangled fish and chips at Big Fish in Kennebunkport.

Best thing in a bun: The blackened fish po’ boy at Po’ Boys and Pickles. Massive pile of seasoned New Orleans style whitefish stuffed in a crusted French bread bun — oozing roasted red pepper mayo and Cajun coleslaw. Perfection.

Best tubular bakery item: The chocolate cork at Standard Baking Company. Essentially the world’s most awesome dense chocolate cake packed into a portable, palm-sized tube. A “to-go” cocoa rush.

Best new take on a classic: The fish and chips at Big Fish in Kennebunkport. Tempura-fried ahi crusted with pepper and crunchy panko crumbs. Hand-cut shoestring fries crisped to a golden brown and dipped in hoisin ketchup. Killer.

Best booze named for a dead British actor: The Rathbone Sour from John Myers at The Corner Room. Brilliant at all things cocktail, the mix master has outdone himself with this one. Ingredients — basil muddled in ice, a dash of lemon juice, gin and — the kicker — St Germaine Elderflower Liqueur.

Best reason to stay overnight in Camden: The pork breakfast sausage at The Hartstone Inn. Cumin-spiced sausage patty the size of a fist wrapped in thick, juicy slices of applewood smoked bacon. Seriously. Made by James Beard Award finalist, chef Michael Salmon.

Best thing to squirt in your Latte: The liquid “crack” at Scratch Baking Co. in South Portland. Espresso and sugar boiled down into a gooey simple syrup. ‘Nuff said.

Best noggin’-sized breakfast pastry: The cinnamon roll at The Good Table in Cape Elizabeth. Steamy fresh, the size of my head and wafting with fragrant sugar and spice.

Best drink in a plastic-coated paper cup. The What’s Shakin’ Bacon shake at Silly’s. Thick sprigs of meaty bacon sprouting from peanut butter creaminess. Picture a well-tended chia pet. A mind-blowing blend of salt and sweetness.